What do I really know about Apulia? - I asked myself, as I was heading to southern Italy for a housesitting stay (which I wrote about in this post) to the very tip of the Italian boot in the winter of 2021 roku. Although I’ve been connected with Italy for more than thirty years, I had only recently made it to Apulia (Puglia in italian). Bari had always made me think mainly of Queen Bona, and the whole region of the stone houses with conical roofs the trulli and the baroque architecture, that defines many of its towns — especially Lecce, especially Lecce.
I was lucky enough, to spend the next three winters in Apulia; and I even returned with my bike in spring – altogether, I've spent about a year there. I ended up in the very heart of the region, where the trulli are most the trulli the Itria Valley (Valle d'Itria in Italian), and more specifically near the town of Ostuni, known “as the “white city””. Whenever time and weather permitted, I’d hop on my bike and wander through the area, discovering both well-known spots and hidden corners. And I completely fell in love with this region.
Join me for a cycling journey through the Valle d'Itria.
Coming here for the first time? – No worries, I’ll start with some general information. You will find practical tips at the end of the post.
Where is the Apulia region located?
Apulia is, figuratively speaking, “the heel of the Italian boot”. Narrow and long province, surrounded by the sea on three sides.
Where is the Itria Valley?
This greenest part of Apulia lies on a plateau between Bari and Brindisi. All it takes is turning inland about 10–15 kilometers from the coast and pushing a bit harder on the pedals — the Itria Valley begins at an elevation of 250–400 meters, between Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo, Cisternino, and Martina Franca, between Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo, Cisternino and Martina Franca. Olive groves stretch here as far as the eye can see, and scattered among them are the region’s characteristic stone houses with conical roofs, that is the trulli.
What is a trullo? According to Wikipedia: A trullo is a traditional Apulian dry stone hut with a conical roof, characteristic of the Itria Valley in the Murge area of the Apulia region. These are stone dwellings with thick walls and cone-shaped roofs, originally used for storing harvests, and later adapted for living..
When you travel through the region, you see trulli everywhere, old and crumbling ones as well as freshly restored buildings, often turned into guest accommodations. This is the authentic face of the Itria Valley. The landscape has something truly unique about it, almost unreal, like a scene from a fantasy film. Trullos captivate me like anything else.
Are there any bicycle routes there?? In the south of Italy, cycling infrastructure is not very developed. I chose three routes:
Cycling routes in Apulia (surroundings of the Valle d'Itria)
1. Ciclovia d’Aquedotto Pugliese - that is the Apulian Aqueduct Bicycle Route
The only fully traffic-separated bike path in the area is Pugliese Aqueduct Cycle Route that is, the Apulian Aqueduct Trail. The route is still in its early development phase, and for now consists of only about twenty kilometers of compacted surface, running along the line of the old aqueduct near Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo. On weekends, it can get fairly busy with cyclists and walkers.
The project is expanding, and the entire planned route will cross three regions: Puglia, Basilicata and Campania – and is expected to reach around five hundred kilometers in total (!).
Martina Franca is the highest-located town in the region, sitting at over four hundred meters above sea level. The climb up can really make you break a sweat, but the ride down is wonderfully fast. If snow ever falls in Apulia in winter — which is rare, — it most often appears around Martina Franca. But don't worry- after a few hours the snow is gone without a trace.
Martina Franca is often called “Little Lecce” – because of its baroque architecture. It’s definitely worth leaving the route for a moment to take a look!!
2. Ostuni – Cisternino – Locorotondo – Alberobello bicycle trail, that is, in the very heart of the Valle d'Itria
This is one of the most popular bike trails in the area - no wonder. It leads through the very heart of the region and its most beautiful towns. At times you ride on gravel paths, at times on quiet side roads, where traffic is almost nonexistent, so you can pedal in peace. This is where the “trulli vibe” is at its strongest, and it’s hard to imagine a more quintessential Apulian atmosphere.
All four towns we visit have charming old centers, with narrow streets, and whitewashed houses. Baroque architecture dominates — rich in ornamentation, yet built from the local, light-colored stone with its warm, biscuit-like hue.
Ostuni
Ostuni, the town where I lived, is the largest in this part of the region, It sits at nearly three hundred meters above sea level, perched on a steep slope, descending toward the sea. Because of its whitewashed buildings, it’s known as la città bianca — the “white city”.
The old town rises high on a ridge, offering clear views of the sea and a vast expanse of olive groves stretching all the way to the horizon. It looks most beautiful from the viewpoint at sunset.
It’s also an excellent base for exploring the entire region. You can rent bikes here as well.
Bike rental in Ostuni
I have a bike for myself, but I was looking for another one for my friend and I found Ostuni Bike. The rental company offers both electric bikes, as well as MTB – we even found a bike for my tall friend. This is a place run with a true philosophy of hospitality. Its owner – Pierluigi – is passionate about cycling, happy to share his knowledge of the area, proposing safe, proven routes. In case of a breakdown or any other problem, you can count on his help. I recommend contacting the place in advance and agreeing on the rental and price.
Cisternino
Cisternino is a peaceful hilltop town, with a characteristic white old center and beautiful views over the Itria Valley. It’s known for its slightly more modest version of Apulian baroque and for its well-preserved buildings made of light-colored stone.
Locorotondo
Locorotondo has a very very characteristic view, because it stands high on a hill and creates an almost perfect white "ring" of houses visible from a distance. During the holiday season, the town stands out for its simplicity, bright illumination, which emphasizes its round shape and white buildings.
Locorotondo is famous throughout Italy for its richest decorations during Christmas. For me they are too exaggerated, but many people like them very much..
Alberobello
Alberobello is the most famous town in the region and probably the first one, most people associate with Puglia. It’s a UNESCO-listed historic town, known for its unique clusters of trullo houses with conical roofs, that form entire neighborhoods. Nowhere else will you find more than a hundred and fifty of these dwellings within the urban fabric itself. It’s also a very popular — and very touristy — destination..
The first time I got here was on January 2nd, on a beautiful sunny Sunday - there were countless crowds on the streets and squares. I stayed for maybe twenty minutes and promised myself, that I will come back on another occasion, non-holiday and non-weekend time. I came here the following year on New Year's Eve, and to my surprise there was almost no one on the streets before midnight.
Honestly, more than the restored houses on the streets of Alberobello, often converted into souvenir shops, I prefer trullos hidden somewhere between olive groves. They are really interesting and simply adorable. That's why I encourage you even more, to go here by bike and explore the narrow "contradas".
3. The coastal route: Bari – Mola in Bari – Polignano a Mare – Monopoli – Brindisi
The easiest way is to go along the sea and this route will probably be chosen by most cyclists. The water is crystal clear and turquoise, towns located on a cliff and between them the oldest olive groves in the region. Take your time, jump into the water here and there - who wouldn't be tempted?
Ja się nie skusiłam 🙂 W grudniu i styczniu było za zimno!
Remark – beyond Torre Canne towards Brindisi, the route runs largely along the highway. I don't recommend. It's better to head towards the mainland or take the train – they ride often and there is no fee for the bike.
Thirty kilometers south of Bari lies one of the most beautiful towns on the coast - Polignano a Mare, built on a cliff. Crystal clear water, cliffs and caves carved by the waves make, that this small, but picturesque town is a unique place - many people come here, to propose or get married :).
Just ten kilometers away is another seaside town - Monopoli. Towards Ostuni and Brindisi you go further from the sea, among olive groves, and the local trees are among the oldest in the entire region.
The road on the section towards Brindisi runs close to the highway, so it's quite noisy.
4. Lecce and the Salento region by bike
Salento, at the very end of Italian “heel”, is a region known for its long coastline, quiet towns and places of great historical importance, such as Otranto, Gallipoli or Brindisi. It's rather flat here, that's why many people choose this area for cycling trips – I described it in detail in this entry “Salento by bike“.
The capital of the region is Lecce, sometimes called the "Florence of the South". The old town is a real architectural gallery: bright, the local stone "pietra leccese" allowed sculptors to create very rich decorations. Churches, facades, balconies and entire streets are impressive both during the day, as well as in the evening, when the stone turns golden in the light of the lamps. This is one of my favorite cities in Italy.
5. When to go cycling to Apulia?
Puglia is the southernmost part of Italy. It is best to go cycling here in spring or autumn. In July and August it is simply too hot here - above thirty degrees Celsius, and in 2021 the temperature record was over 40. Additionally, from June to August there are a lot of tourists here and prices jump significantly.
- Spring – from mid-March to May, at temperatures from approximately 12 to 30 degrees Celsius. This is the most pleasant time to travel by bike.
- Autumn – from September to mid-November, there will be a similar temperature range as in spring. You just have to remember, that the day is then much shorter and adjust the distances.
And if someone thinks that, that it is always warm and nice on the Mediterranean Sea, is wrong. From December to February, the temperature usually stays between eight and twelve degrees, sometimes it will go up to seventeen, and sometimes it will snow. The worst, however, are the frequent strong winds and heavy rains.
6. How to get to Apulia from Poland?
Plane
It is about two and a half thousand kilometers from the borders of Poland. The most convenient way is to fly:
- Bari – flights from Poland are operated by Wizzair and Ryanair,
- Brindisi – new connections are to start in 2026 roku.
I wrote in detail about taking a bicycle on a plane in this entry.
Train
In Italy you can transport your bicycle:
- on trains Regional (speed regional) – in Puglia, transport is free,
- in fast regional,
- in Intercity – with mandatory reservation of a bicycle slot.
I describe the topic in more detail in this entry.
Bus
You can also take your bike on the bus.
The easiest with Flixbus – with a reservation of a place for a bicycle. I went from Puglia to Rome this way and it was no problem. I transported my bike on Flixbus many times throughout Europe, I describe it in detail in this entry.
Ferry
Option for those, who combine Puglia with a longer trip around Europe.
Ferries to Bari and Brindisi they run in the season with:
- Croatia: Split, Dubrovnik
- Albania: Durres, Wlore
- Greece: Igoumenitsa, Patras
More information about cycling on the Salento Peninsula is to be found in this post.
Are you interested in exploring other parts of Italy by bike?? Also check out Tuscany.
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