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Category:

United Arab Emirates

    AsiaMiddle EastSilk RoadUnited Arab Emirates

    From the steppes of Kazakhstan's to the oasis of luxury – United Arab Emirates and Oman

    by Ewcyna 13 May 2018
    written by Ewcyna

    On the last day of October in the steppes of southern Kazakhstan thermometer showed 29 degrees Celsius and everybody agreed, that is must be weather anomaly, because at this time of year it already usually slightly snows , what the hell, going around still in short pants. And I still was, maybe not short pants, but those up to my knees. Two days later from 29 it dropped to 15 but then to even 5 degrees and that finally made me think hard on already multiple times postponed decision - , where next?? Where now?

    Most of the Central Asian "overlanders travelling on the Silk Road probably would NOT ask themselves this question - they'd simply push forward because they are not afraid of cold, snow and turmoil. But I do not like to bother myself too much and get tired, I do not like to risk too much neither. Travel should be a pleasure. That's what I think. How boring! And nothing, to tell your grandchildren.

    And what was in front of me? Yes kilometers, perhaps a thousand kilometers on the steppe where nothing is around, just strong wind blowing in your face because here most westerly winds dominate and I cycle westwards. such a breeze, even the pedals can hardly move, total "breeze". Cities located at a distance of several dozen, or even hundreds of kilometers away from each other.

    prez steppe in Kazakhstan

    Silk Road cycling in Kazakhstan

    I have already given up the idea of crossing Turkmenistan, because first of all - I wouldn't'be entertained to cycle 600 km in 5 day because my maxim is, after all, "not for speed" that is to go slowly and enjoy. Second, the only possible type of visa to try to get for Turkmenistan, for which you can apply when cycling individually (is the transit one that is for 5 days) and it is also extremely difficult. to get. Obtaning a Turkmenistan visa became a lottery and many friends of mine in recent times had no luck, Instead of pedalling 120 km per day (to do the 600 km in 5 days) at the last minute they had to change plans, pack their bikes and stuff and seat on the plane flying somewhere. This is quite stressful and expensive process.

    Stress and haste as you know Im not fond of. I prefer comfortable temperatures too, preferably in the range of 20-25 degrees, perfect to stay warm or and not to get to cold neither – I did not fancy me therefore pedaling through northern Iran in December, because of probable snow and rain there.

    Therefore I settled for 3 weeks in the city of Shymkent in southern Kazakhstan pondering what to do with so nice already started trip that lasted about 4 months already,. With maniacal stubborness I've been following charts and tables of temperatures in recent years in different places of the globe, reading travel blogs, I asked questions on forums, I got acquainted with the conditions of carriage of luggage and bicycle on different airlines sites. You can go gray on the job, I'm serious.

    On the other hand - after all, you can call it prudent and thoughtful planning a trip, isn't it?

    Nepal? Malaysia? Maybe South India? or United Arab Emirates and Oman, about which I've heard so much good ? Let it be the UAE and Oman. It will make me avoid flying in two directions, and Ill stay on the Silk Road at the same time.

    In the second half of November I left Kazakhstan on board the Kazakh Air Astana (which take the bike for 50 USD with no limit to the size and weight 32 kg, as of November 2017 – highy recommended) I moved my 4 ass and belongings to a completely different dimension.

    The dimension is called Dubai and it is is not the capital of the United Arab Emirates but its main city. However, this is certainly one of the strangest places in the world. Huge creation mostly of concrete, glass and steel which emerges in the middle of the desert at the seafront in the Persian Gulf that emerged there just in a few, maximum 10 years. Place, at which is easier to meet working in the services sector Indian people, Pakistani and Filipinos or expatriates enjoying a zero tax on their earnings (form Januraty 1st it is already massive 5%) than native Emirati men (scale 80% to 20% more or less).

    world's tallest building Burj Khalifa and around the construction site

    Azure water on the beach of Al Jumeirah in Dubai

    With the guidance of Chris, my host from Warmshowers, who agreed to take me in his villa surrounded by palm trees and green freshly watered grass, landing in this oasis of luxury was kindda soft.

    A little of bad luck was that, Chris lived some 40 km from the airport. After landing I packed my russian bags and belongings together with a box with the bike to a super comfy airport limousine (let me tell you that at the airport in Dubai there are absolutely fantastic roomy cabs that can fit your bike easily, and my bike box is 1,5 meters long 1,5 without a problem) I sat next to the driver watched anxiously counting meter.
    Excuse me, how much it cost till Marina? I asked the Lebanese driver, who reminded me with his posture of the Polish athlete Przemyslaw Saleta.

    What’s your problem, madam? You answered releasing the driver if he wanted to stay on the side of the road and talk to me seriously. As I understand the question of money are not welcome threre as everyone is assumed to have a lot , I stayed shut and askedno more questions until the end of the course. Luckily, however, I didnt spend fortune taking into account the distance and place, the ride cost like 25 USD/ 80 PLN .

    Chris greeted me very warmly and offered dinner: in addition to grills and salads I was offered also beer and after a few days I realized, as the latter was unusual element of the menu. alcohol – beer, wine and liquors are not on sale in United Arab Emirates and Oman. It's a Muslim country, prohibition. Well, I know - in contrast to Iran even drinks can be purchased at authorized to sell the few shops or hotels for a multiple of the nominal price and the presentation of a special card (issued only to residents of the country). Therefore, it was my last sip of beer for the next 4,5 months and somehow this was not bad.
    The temperature in the evening to my surprise required putting on a sweatshirt. It cooled down only in the last week, said Chris. Throughout 8 months of the year you cannot normally live here without air conditioning.

    It's nice, I will not need it now, ideal temperature, excellent logisticst move Eva! I thought to myself waving my body in a hammock on the terrace. Over the next days, I acclimatized in Dubai and rougly planned my route in Oman. Also I changed a place to stay, Chris had other guests coming, but fortunately I was welcomed graciously by Italian Georgio on 20 floor of his apartment in the center. Have I told you how much I was lucky to have great hosts on the Arabian peninsula? The hotel prices were to hight for me . In my defense, I might add, that for the last 2 years I almost never took advantege of the hospitality of the Warmshowers hosts , and the famous Coachsurfing somehow I do not use at all..

    After nearly a week, armed with knowledge from the guides I finally decided to leave Dubai.
    Well, easy to say!

    The city is, meant as refuge for rich people and it is assumed no getting around it by other means of transport than the car. For the middle group two lines of subway were created, for cyclists there is basically nothing. But, oh! After all, there are bike paths on the seaside promenade, or recently created another one along artificial canal called the Creek or the Al Qudra outside the city.. ok, there are a few places, where you can bike for an evening walk, but it is simply impossible to get there by bicycle, not to mention the use of bicycles as a means of locomotion. Six-lane highways in both directions, winding wharfs. you want to cycle? making in your pants out of fear guaranteed.

    channel the Creek in Dubai

    multi-lane highway in Dubai

    When packing the bike I discovered, that I lost my expanders (rubber fixing) for luggage. Thus I figured out where the nearest bicycle shop is, which turned out to be on the 20 floor of a skyscraper, under which you could not park your bike. This is a very common ailment Dubai- everything around is so manicured, new shiny and beautiful, dirty or even superclean bike doesnt simply doeasnt fit there. you cannot park there, sorry .

    And could I take my bike to the lift?No, neither? How can I use the bike shop then sir? I asked the Indian parking guard .
    He could not answer me. I think, that question is more to be asked to the owners of so thoughtlessly located store. Finally I managed to do my shopping in the next, normally located bike shop, whereupon 15 kilometers 20 and trestles further I found myself finally more or less outside the city.

    I got to the bike path Al Qudra - basically it is a system of 3 of cycle loops of different length (from a dozen to ca.. 90 km) going through the desert sands. On smooth pavement path I was being passed by local expats cyclists on ultralight carbon bicycles. The path. Al Qudra, however, has the advantage, that the terminal is located at its starting point – a building with changing rooms and showers, hairdryers, shampoo, hair conditioner, and toilet paper supplied.

    Meanwhile. at the terminal a car parked with a couple of young people inside. A girl entered the ladies section, Local Muslim woman in a black abaya and hejab covering her face and hair . After 20 minutes I saw young woman in jeans trousers, skimpy T-shirt and dissolved freshly washed hair. I recognized her just from the smile she sent. I wondered, after the party, they undoubtedly were to attend, would they come again and change into a more acceptable by the family and the local community clothes?.

    I took a shower and decided to try my luck for the night on lying nearby (sorry, lying everywhere around ) desert. The dunes present themselves very picturesque in the reality and one the pictures, live bait in cycling trip is not as sweet. Please show me a cyclist, which would happily drag his/her bike over the soft sand?

    I did a good job on finiding a good spot for the night, where I could somehow roll my bike. The sky above me was dotted with stars and birds were singing .. go back! ...! Nothing was singing! I mean, maybe it was, but I could not hear it. Until like 2 o'clock in the morning the sand dunes were rolled on by driving enthusiasts , of 4x4 vehicles×4, Let them rest in peace on day... Undoubtedly, in this country, however, the amount of outdoor entertainments due to the prevailing circumstances of the monotonous nature is quite limited and running over sand dunes is one of those most popular ones. I woke up therefore around 7 in the morning and crawled out of the tent barely alive. The amount of sand in each corner of my tent and the body was definitely too big, therefore I returned to the Al Qudra terminal to take the next shower . You never know, when it will again be such an opportunity!


    After having reached the next and last terminal of Al Qudra path I had something to eat, made use of the shower again, and as the sunset was close I had decided to pedal to the located nearby attraction that is the artificial lakes of Chris told me about.

    The Lakes are complex dug in the desert lakes formed after this, entertain bored in their spare time Dubai workers so they can escape the city and listen to nature.. Go back!! Listen to their radio transistors and eat barbecue drinking accessible only to them alcohol.

    The lakes Qudra

    I'll never understand why, in a place like this, where you can listen to nature, in this case birds brought in thousands here, but nevertheless real and alive birds, people prefer to tune their equipment playing the full.. In one night I changed three times place I put my tent on, the last time at 23 when it turned out, that at this time a group of English-speaking expats wanted to make a fire and start partying 100 meters from my tent hidden in the bush. With tears in my eyes in disbelief and I dragged my tent through the sand as far as possible from the road. So the first two nights in the Emirati outdoor I consider to be little successful.


    And then it was back to normal. Normal, that is, red-orange sand dunes around and camels strolling here and there or even a white antelopes to be spotted. Until to the border with Oman I rolled on weaving secondary roads yet 2 days. Gentlemen policemen at the police station in one of the cities I visited just before dusk in the hope of help with finding accommodation shook their heads in lack of understanding. They were not able to do anything about. Too dangerous to put up a tent madam here! ! I heard. Around here, only Pakistanis living.

     

    On the police station premises as a solo woman I had no chance to stay (my heart will always remain with you Thailand, where all the police stations had their doors always open to travellers in need), but fortunately I found a tiny place to stay 1,5 x 2 long for a night and made myslef comfortable there.


    On the horizon finally the mountains showed up . Al Hajar mountain range, whose small part lies on the United Arab Emirates territory and the biggert one in Oman gave the landscape more of a character.

    Al Hajar Mountain range in the UAE

    Before I crossed the borderat crossing at Hatta ! met with Christine from Ireland with her Hindu boyfriend.

    Oman! I love this country! Christine was emotional. We go there whenever we can, although recently they increased four times the cost of a visa. I"ll write you mmediately what to see and where to go, although it really is interesting everywhere.

    With big sheet of A4 paper with Christina's personal Omani itinerary I travelled around this beautiful country for the next 2 months 2 months spent in Oman. And what it was and how it was iIll tell you in my next post!

    Linked:

    • Z Sziraz do Yazd czyli irańskie miejsko-pustynne impresje
      From Shiraz to Yazd. Iranian urban-desert impressions
    • Wjazd do Iranu - księżycowy Keszm i sinusoida wrażeń
      Entry to Iran - lunar Keshm and sweet-bitter sensations
    • Azerbejdżan. Wywczasy w Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś na podróż?
      Azerbaijan. Holiday in Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś…
    • Armenia i Górski Karabach rowerem - moje miejsce na ziemi
      Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by bike - my place on earth
    • Iran, let's bike again!
      Iran, let's bike again!
    • Gruzja i po płaskim? - rowerem przez step Kachetii i dolinę Alazani
      Georgia on the flat? - rowerem przez step Kachetii i dolinę…
    13 May 2018 2 comments
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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Hope it'll bring you health and happiness. 
It's been 5 years! Still on my mind 
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #cyclingwomen #cyclingiran #adventurecycling #silkroad #novruzbayramı #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #persia #esfahan #roweremprzeświat #wolność #polskieblogipodróżcze #solotraveller #biketouring # #shetravels
To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and reach an agreement with myself - to go or not to go, where to?  From my Tuscan solitude, 30 km both ways may not impress, but 800 meters of climbing yes. On Saturdays one can choose between Buonconvento or Asciano, because both have vegetable markets and although they are no match for the Polish or Apulian ones, they are also twice as expensive as the latter as well, but at least they exist.  And since I eat vegetables like a rabbit and say no to plastic wrapping in supermarkets I had to go.  This time I didn't even need that much but since the weather was great, I decided that maybe I'll go to Asciano to see if the medieval walls haven't collapsed yet.  I report that they are standing still, the town on the ancient route of Via Laurentina is doing well and there were even quite a few tourists who exposed their faces to the sun over a cup of espresso or other prosecco.  The cycling season has also started, although mainly e-bikes and road bikes rule, there are plenty of cyclists, and in April and May it will be the apogee.  I mumbled in the bakery about the lack of good bread though, I've already told you that in Tuscany it is baked from white flour without salt and it's so bland.. One tiny reason to complain about this heaven. You can forget about Apulian brown loaves with a thick crust, so I bought two kilos of flour and I will bake by myself. 
 I could return taking the same or an alternative, more demanding route, a moment of hesitation, but I chose the latter.  It is even more beautiful in terms of views, it cuts through the heart of the Sienese clays and the traffic there is negligible.  Crowds come here for photography shooting and me just went shopping... 
Where did you go on your bike today? 
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Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Yes, that? Uncertain about it? I have, numerous times in Europe, luckily mostly it went smoothly. And one big failure..that finished well.

Dreaming of a bicycle trip around France or sunny Italy, experiencing the great cycling infrastructure in Germany, a trip to the Hungarian Lake Balaton or Poland? How to get there with a bike? If you don't like flying, trains fail or are too expensive, Flixbus could be an option, to reach the place with a bicycle. Sometimes it's simple, but beware – it's is not always the case.

It's time to plan our summer trips so here I come with my blog post on Flixbus and bicycles. Step by step guide with lots of photos, screenshots and links. 

Questions answered:
Can I transport a bike on Flixbus?  What does it look like?  How to search for connections?  Do I have to dismantle and pack my bike?  What problems may arise and how to avoid them. And what if we can't ..?

Any experience in this regard?  #flixbus
👉Link in my bio 

 Ps.  I created this post with other people in mind and it took me a long time.
 Did you find it useful?  Cool!  Pass it on. Buy me a coffee!
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#europebybike #bikeonabus #rower #flixbusrower #womenonbikes #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail. you Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail.  you know it, right?  No idea how it happened, but until now, despite numerous stays in Italy I have not seen the ancient city of Pompeii.
 But that's the past!  Last Sunday, making a stop on my way from the south of Italy to the north, I finally visited this extraordinary place.  Me and thousands of others 😁. There were crowds.  Maybe even bigger than usual.
 Sunday was a weather window between days of rain because it still rains a lot.  But not only.  It was also the first Sunday of the month, and on the first Sunday of the month in Italy it was declared "Sunday at the Museum", when admission to most museum monuments in the country is free, Pompeii too.  I was planning a stop on the road for this Sunday, so it was great! Already in the morning the queue was sky -high but made it smoothly in.
 I walked the stone streets of Pompeii with my jaw dropped.  I had no idea how huge this area is!  A regular port city, it used to lie on the seashore.  Beautiful villas, an amphitheater, a theater, speeches, temples, baths, even a brothel.  The love of art can be seen everywhere, frescoes, sculptures. The tragic volcano Vesuvius still reigns over the city.
 In terms of trials and intentions, however, there still be the Amalfi Coast - a mountainous promontory jutting into the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea south of Naples, which is famous for its insane views.  Positano and Sorrento are the names of real cities on the Amalfi coast, not just pizzerias 😉. Well, I missed a few days and the weather. 
Next time
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#pompei #italiainbici #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #biketouring #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling # bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #domenicaalmuseo
It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing yourself in the landscape of Italian postcards?  Dolce vita viewed from your bicycle? 

In my new blog post let me take you to Tuscany for cycling in the Orcia river valley.  I've spent many months there and go back frequently in different seasons (yes, just in a week!). I got to know this region really well and fell in love with it just like everyone else.

Val D'Orcia makes the most of what Italian landscape is - medieval stone towns on the hills, picturesque roads lined with cypress trees, winding gorges, vineyards and olive groves and all this creates fantastic, almost fabulous landscapes. A UNESCO heritage and an AMAZING bike spot in one.

Hold on, because the views knock you off the couch 🙂 It is here, through the winding roads of Tuscany, that the routes of iconic bicycle routes lead - the vintage race L'Eroica, the high-performance Tuscany Trail and the ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome - Via Francingena. You will cross the famous "strade bianche" - roads made of almost white gravel. One thing is for sure - you won't be the only one riding a bike. And not the only one to sweat - yes, it's all about the hills!

Follow a link in my bio 
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#eroica #valdorcia #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzezświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the It Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the Italian heel again and spring in the air- I cycled to some of the oldest groves in Puglia. The olive trees - some over a thousand years old, have their trunks wrapping around the gnarled base before splitting and walking away from their other parts. The olive oil has become substantial part of my diet and here it tastes great. 40% of Italian olive oil comes from Puglia!
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#italybybike #puglia #olivetree #apulia #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #outdoorwoman #bike #onmybike #polskieblogpodrozcze #freedom #bikewander #outsideisfree #solotravel #worldbycycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #outsideisfree
Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea made my (1st of a year) day.
A great start I would say. 
2023 - let it be... A good one! Yet another. Wishing you all.
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#italybybike #pugliainbici #outdoorwomen #cyclinglifestyle #travelbike #freedom #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solotraveller #biketouring #polignanoamare #apulia
#rowerem #onmybike #Puglia #happynewyear #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
"Natale con i suoi, Easter with whoever you want" - "Christ "Natale con i suoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" - "Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you want" says the Italian proverb, according to it, on the first day of Christmas, December 25, after 2 p.m., Italy stops. And then, the square was full of people, cafe bustle, conversations, drinks to warm up before a long afternoon at the table and then ... silence. Nobody. Christmas dinner is the main, most important point of Christmas celebrations, just like Christmas Eve in Poland. Santo Stefano day, December 26th is traditionally spent walking, sightseeing, outdoors. And now not a single car passed by me, but another cyclist did!  Fantastic weather - blue sky, sun, about 17 degrees.
Wandering around the streets, the kitchen windows are open and I can smell fried fish. Once upon a time I came to Italy for a holiday with $300 in my pocket (which I put aside all year long by giving English classes), which was supposed to last for 2 months. And it did. Sleeping under the sky as I didn't even have a tent, hitchhiking..the only food I had was bread with onions and Calve mayonnaise.  This mayonnaise was my discovery, and sweet onions too.  The main point of the day and the only luxury I allowed myself was a cup of cappuccino - before I ordered it, however, I walked around and looked at the tables of the cafes in which cups they serve them in - I wanted as big as possible.  Then I sat for an hour, tasting the remnants of milk foam with a spoon. The smell of tomato sauce coming from the open windows annoyed me because I was craving dinner so much. Today I remembered that smell from 30 years back.
 I have lunch at home, and cappuccino is also sometimes, thanks to your donations as well (I still look at the cups 🙃). And on the wall today I read the quote "Limits exist only in the soul of those who do not dream". But it was pathetic.  Let's dream, let's fulfill...
I wish you many good dinners and moments spent as you wish.  I was on a bike 😁.
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #christmasvibe
Today it's December 10th and it is a special date Today it's December 10th and it is a special date for me. On 10 Dec 2013, I locked my door, gave the key to the new tenant, packed the box with my bike into my neighbor's car and flew off on a trip with a one-way ticket. To the other side of the world, the Philippines. The decision-making process wasn't particularly long and was born after cycling Japan, but I had been preparing for this escapade for several months. Organizing my life, buying a new bike (to make it "easier" I went to Berlin twice in one week) and other equipment, buying various insurances, arranging vaccinations - each step meant a lot of time spent on choosing one option or another, finally packing life into boxes and taking it to the basement and flying to Manila with a short stay in Shanghai on the way. I chose the Philippines knowing absolutely nothing about it. There was a promotion on KLM tickets and this destination seemed to me OK. It wasn't that much OK as it turned out, but I still managed to spend there and even pedal for 7 weeks 🙂. For the first 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Sophia. 
Gees, it's been 9 years, and I can't stop! After the Philippines I flew to Burma, then cycled through Thailand, Laos, China.... I don't know if I'll go back to Southeast Asia, because I'm sweating at the thought of it, but going through my posts (quite clumsy, it's the beginnings of the blog) made me very happy. If you feel like it go to my my webpage #Ewcyna. What an excitement it was!
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #philippinesbybike #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #rowerem  #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #biketravel #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #blogipodroznicze #photooftheday
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  • Solo woman cycling in Iran - woman's perspective (.. – is it a no-no?)
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  • By bike through Western Pomerania – The Old Railway Trail (Kołobrzeg - Złocieniec)
  • Journeys
  • Solo cycling the world – a subjective guide for women
  • The Vistula Bicycle Route in Małopolska. Western part: Brzeszcze – Krakow (and around)

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