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Category:

United Arab Emirates

    AsiaMiddle EastSilk RoadUnited Arab Emirates

    From the steppes of Kazakhstan's to the oasis of luxury – United Arab Emirates and Oman

    by Ewcyna 13 May 2018
    written by Ewcyna

    On the last day of October in the steppes of southern Kazakhstan thermometer showed 29 degrees Celsius and everybody agreed, that is must be weather anomaly, because at this time of year it already usually slightly snows , what the hell, going around still in short pants. And I still was, maybe not short pants, but those up to my knees. Two days later from 29 it dropped to 15 but then to even 5 degrees and that finally made me think hard on already multiple times postponed decision - , where next?? Where now?

    Most of the Central Asian "overlanders travelling on the Silk Road probably would NOT ask themselves this question - they'd simply push forward because they are not afraid of cold, snow and turmoil. But I do not like to bother myself too much and get tired, I do not like to risk too much neither. Travel should be a pleasure. That's what I think. How boring! And nothing, to tell your grandchildren.

    And what was in front of me? Yes kilometers, perhaps a thousand kilometers on the steppe where nothing is around, just strong wind blowing in your face because here most westerly winds dominate and I cycle westwards. such a breeze, even the pedals can hardly move, total "breeze". Cities located at a distance of several dozen, or even hundreds of kilometers away from each other.

    prez steppe in Kazakhstan

    Silk Road cycling in Kazakhstan

    I have already given up the idea of crossing Turkmenistan, because first of all - I wouldn't'be entertained to cycle 600 km in 5 day because my maxim is, after all, "not for speed" that is to go slowly and enjoy. Second, the only possible type of visa to try to get for Turkmenistan, for which you can apply when cycling individually (is the transit one that is for 5 days) and it is also extremely difficult. to get. Obtaning a Turkmenistan visa became a lottery and many friends of mine in recent times had no luck, Instead of pedalling 120 km per day (to do the 600 km in 5 days) at the last minute they had to change plans, pack their bikes and stuff and seat on the plane flying somewhere. This is quite stressful and expensive process.

    Stress and haste as you know Im not fond of. I prefer comfortable temperatures too, preferably in the range of 20-25 degrees, perfect to stay warm or and not to get to cold neither – I did not fancy me therefore pedaling through northern Iran in December, because of probable snow and rain there.

    Therefore I settled for 3 weeks in the city of Shymkent in southern Kazakhstan pondering what to do with so nice already started trip that lasted about 4 months already,. With maniacal stubborness I've been following charts and tables of temperatures in recent years in different places of the globe, reading travel blogs, I asked questions on forums, I got acquainted with the conditions of carriage of luggage and bicycle on different airlines sites. You can go gray on the job, I'm serious.

    On the other hand - after all, you can call it prudent and thoughtful planning a trip, isn't it?

    Nepal? Malaysia? Maybe South India? or United Arab Emirates and Oman, about which I've heard so much good ? Let it be the UAE and Oman. It will make me avoid flying in two directions, and Ill stay on the Silk Road at the same time.

    In the second half of November I left Kazakhstan on board the Kazakh Air Astana (which take the bike for 50 USD with no limit to the size and weight 32 kg, as of November 2017 – highy recommended) I moved my 4 ass and belongings to a completely different dimension.

    The dimension is called Dubai and it is is not the capital of the United Arab Emirates but its main city. However, this is certainly one of the strangest places in the world. Huge creation mostly of concrete, glass and steel which emerges in the middle of the desert at the seafront in the Persian Gulf that emerged there just in a few, maximum 10 years. Place, at which is easier to meet working in the services sector Indian people, Pakistani and Filipinos or expatriates enjoying a zero tax on their earnings (form Januraty 1st it is already massive 5%) than native Emirati men (scale 80% to 20% more or less).

    world's tallest building Burj Khalifa and around the construction site

    Azure water on the beach of Al Jumeirah in Dubai

    With the guidance of Chris, my host from Warmshowers, who agreed to take me in his villa surrounded by palm trees and green freshly watered grass, landing in this oasis of luxury was kindda soft.

    A little of bad luck was that, Chris lived some 40 km from the airport. After landing I packed my russian bags and belongings together with a box with the bike to a super comfy airport limousine (let me tell you that at the airport in Dubai there are absolutely fantastic roomy cabs that can fit your bike easily, and my bike box is 1,5 meters long 1,5 without a problem) I sat next to the driver watched anxiously counting meter.
    Excuse me, how much it cost till Marina? I asked the Lebanese driver, who reminded me with his posture of the Polish athlete Przemyslaw Saleta.

    What’s your problem, madam? You answered releasing the driver if he wanted to stay on the side of the road and talk to me seriously. As I understand the question of money are not welcome threre as everyone is assumed to have a lot , I stayed shut and askedno more questions until the end of the course. Luckily, however, I didnt spend fortune taking into account the distance and place, the ride cost like 25 USD/ 80 PLN .

    Chris greeted me very warmly and offered dinner: in addition to grills and salads I was offered also beer and after a few days I realized, as the latter was unusual element of the menu. alcohol – beer, wine and liquors are not on sale in United Arab Emirates and Oman. It's a Muslim country, prohibition. Well, I know - in contrast to Iran even drinks can be purchased at authorized to sell the few shops or hotels for a multiple of the nominal price and the presentation of a special card (issued only to residents of the country). Therefore, it was my last sip of beer for the next 4,5 months and somehow this was not bad.
    The temperature in the evening to my surprise required putting on a sweatshirt. It cooled down only in the last week, said Chris. Throughout 8 months of the year you cannot normally live here without air conditioning.

    It's nice, I will not need it now, ideal temperature, excellent logisticst move Eva! I thought to myself waving my body in a hammock on the terrace. Over the next days, I acclimatized in Dubai and rougly planned my route in Oman. Also I changed a place to stay, Chris had other guests coming, but fortunately I was welcomed graciously by Italian Georgio on 20 floor of his apartment in the center. Have I told you how much I was lucky to have great hosts on the Arabian peninsula? The hotel prices were to hight for me . In my defense, I might add, that for the last 2 years I almost never took advantege of the hospitality of the Warmshowers hosts , and the famous Coachsurfing somehow I do not use at all..

    After nearly a week, armed with knowledge from the guides I finally decided to leave Dubai.
    Well, easy to say!

    The city is, meant as refuge for rich people and it is assumed no getting around it by other means of transport than the car. For the middle group two lines of subway were created, for cyclists there is basically nothing. But, oh! After all, there are bike paths on the seaside promenade, or recently created another one along artificial canal called the Creek or the Al Qudra outside the city.. ok, there are a few places, where you can bike for an evening walk, but it is simply impossible to get there by bicycle, not to mention the use of bicycles as a means of locomotion. Six-lane highways in both directions, winding wharfs. you want to cycle? making in your pants out of fear guaranteed.

    channel the Creek in Dubai

    multi-lane highway in Dubai

    When packing the bike I discovered, that I lost my expanders (rubber fixing) for luggage. Thus I figured out where the nearest bicycle shop is, which turned out to be on the 20 floor of a skyscraper, under which you could not park your bike. This is a very common ailment Dubai- everything around is so manicured, new shiny and beautiful, dirty or even superclean bike doesnt simply doeasnt fit there. you cannot park there, sorry .

    And could I take my bike to the lift?No, neither? How can I use the bike shop then sir? I asked the Indian parking guard .
    He could not answer me. I think, that question is more to be asked to the owners of so thoughtlessly located store. Finally I managed to do my shopping in the next, normally located bike shop, whereupon 15 kilometers 20 and trestles further I found myself finally more or less outside the city.

    I got to the bike path Al Qudra - basically it is a system of 3 of cycle loops of different length (from a dozen to ca.. 90 km) going through the desert sands. On smooth pavement path I was being passed by local expats cyclists on ultralight carbon bicycles. The path. Al Qudra, however, has the advantage, that the terminal is located at its starting point – a building with changing rooms and showers, hairdryers, shampoo, hair conditioner, and toilet paper supplied.

    Meanwhile. at the terminal a car parked with a couple of young people inside. A girl entered the ladies section, Local Muslim woman in a black abaya and hejab covering her face and hair . After 20 minutes I saw young woman in jeans trousers, skimpy T-shirt and dissolved freshly washed hair. I recognized her just from the smile she sent. I wondered, after the party, they undoubtedly were to attend, would they come again and change into a more acceptable by the family and the local community clothes?.

    I took a shower and decided to try my luck for the night on lying nearby (sorry, lying everywhere around ) desert. The dunes present themselves very picturesque in the reality and one the pictures, live bait in cycling trip is not as sweet. Please show me a cyclist, which would happily drag his/her bike over the soft sand?

    I did a good job on finiding a good spot for the night, where I could somehow roll my bike. The sky above me was dotted with stars and birds were singing .. go back! ...! Nothing was singing! I mean, maybe it was, but I could not hear it. Until like 2 o'clock in the morning the sand dunes were rolled on by driving enthusiasts , of 4x4 vehicles×4, Let them rest in peace on day... Undoubtedly, in this country, however, the amount of outdoor entertainments due to the prevailing circumstances of the monotonous nature is quite limited and running over sand dunes is one of those most popular ones. I woke up therefore around 7 in the morning and crawled out of the tent barely alive. The amount of sand in each corner of my tent and the body was definitely too big, therefore I returned to the Al Qudra terminal to take the next shower . You never know, when it will again be such an opportunity!


    After having reached the next and last terminal of Al Qudra path I had something to eat, made use of the shower again, and as the sunset was close I had decided to pedal to the located nearby attraction that is the artificial lakes of Chris told me about.

    The Lakes are complex dug in the desert lakes formed after this, entertain bored in their spare time Dubai workers so they can escape the city and listen to nature.. Go back!! Listen to their radio transistors and eat barbecue drinking accessible only to them alcohol.

    The lakes Qudra

    I'll never understand why, in a place like this, where you can listen to nature, in this case birds brought in thousands here, but nevertheless real and alive birds, people prefer to tune their equipment playing the full.. In one night I changed three times place I put my tent on, the last time at 23 when it turned out, that at this time a group of English-speaking expats wanted to make a fire and start partying 100 meters from my tent hidden in the bush. With tears in my eyes in disbelief and I dragged my tent through the sand as far as possible from the road. So the first two nights in the Emirati outdoor I consider to be little successful.


    And then it was back to normal. Normal, that is, red-orange sand dunes around and camels strolling here and there or even a white antelopes to be spotted. Until to the border with Oman I rolled on weaving secondary roads yet 2 days. Gentlemen policemen at the police station in one of the cities I visited just before dusk in the hope of help with finding accommodation shook their heads in lack of understanding. They were not able to do anything about. Too dangerous to put up a tent madam here! ! I heard. Around here, only Pakistanis living.

     

    On the police station premises as a solo woman I had no chance to stay (my heart will always remain with you Thailand, where all the police stations had their doors always open to travellers in need), but fortunately I found a tiny place to stay 1,5 x 2 long for a night and made myslef comfortable there.


    On the horizon finally the mountains showed up . Al Hajar mountain range, whose small part lies on the United Arab Emirates territory and the biggert one in Oman gave the landscape more of a character.

    Al Hajar Mountain range in the UAE

    Before I crossed the borderat crossing at Hatta ! met with Christine from Ireland with her Hindu boyfriend.

    Oman! I love this country! Christine was emotional. We go there whenever we can, although recently they increased four times the cost of a visa. I"ll write you mmediately what to see and where to go, although it really is interesting everywhere.

    With big sheet of A4 paper with Christina's personal Omani itinerary I travelled around this beautiful country for the next 2 months 2 months spent in Oman. And what it was and how it was iIll tell you in my next post!

    Linked:

    • Armenia i Górski Karabach rowerem - moje miejsce na ziemi
      Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by bike - my place on earth
    13 May 2018 2 comments
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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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SHOWS/ SLIDES September/October 2023 (E SHOWS/ SLIDES September/October 2023
(Eng. Invitation to the upcoming presentations in Poland from my Silk Road bike journey) 

Dear! In the coming weeks I will again have the opportunity to share stories from my journey along the Silk Road from China to Turkey. Several shows are planned in Silesia, in Gdynia and Warsaw.  Some are paid, others are free admission.
I cordially invite everyone, not only bicycle twisted.

7.09 (Thursday) godz. 16.30  Skoczow (province. Silesian), Electric Theatre, ul. Mickiewicz 3 
 (bilety 15 PLN)

11.09 (Monday) godz. 19.00 Katowice, NAMASTE Travelers Club,  ul. Jan Sobieski 27
(bilety 15 PLN)

ticket(wtoPLN ) godz. 18.00 Oswiecim, Oświęcim Cultural Center ul. Śniadecki 24 
(wstęp wolny)

15.09 (piątek) godz. 16.30 Gdynia, Gdynia Travel Workshops, Pomeranian Science and Technology Park (wstęp wFree entranceer - Warsaw: 
3.10 godz. 18.00 (wtorek) DK Kadr, ul. ofTuesday32 
6.10 godz. 19.00 (piąthek) DK Lowicka,Fridayahours.
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#Jedwabnyszlak #District lecture #namaste #Traveler #Festival Podrowanici #Pokaz #meeting Patrodist #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #podrozerower #podrozerower #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopod #bicycles
Brittany is a little different France. No vineyard Brittany is a little different France. No vineyards here, but loads of castles, grazing cows and sheep, mostly rocky coast and wind. Pray so it blows at your back! 
I have planned for years and finally got there this summer. Lots to explore left there still though! 
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#solotravel #cyclingnomad #cyclinglifestyle #francevelotourisme #francebybike #cyclingfrance #velonomad #cicloviaggiatori #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #inbici #travelbike #outdoor #podrozerowerem #outsideisfree #bretagne #wyprawarowerowa #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapod roses #onmybike # cycling through the world #cicloturismo #polskiblogspodróżcze #lifeontheroad
The Lavaux vineyard area stretches between Lausann The Lavaux vineyard area stretches between Lausanne and Vevey on a terraced, steep northern slope of Lake Geneva overlooking the peaks of the Alps.  A beautiful lake and even rows of lush green vines always create a beautiful sight, but I was wondering why is it a UNESCO site?
 "Oh, just millionaires started buying up the land and building houses there, that was the only way to protect the place," explained Anna, a solo cyclist friend who lives nearby and whom I finally met after years of Facebook virtual acquaintance.
I left Geneva looking at the sky with justified concern, because the last days here there was a storm after storm.  Fortunately, during the ride along the lake, it cleared up and we could soak up the beautiful views.  Just like on Lake Garda, the views here are luxurious.  I passed the spas of Thonon les Bains and Evian - the latter is known for its bottled water brand.  Here I could drink it at the source for free, apparently it does well. It was also time for the last bath.  It is difficult to provide any comment to the curr, in the evening I found myself on the Riviera, because that's what they call the shore between Montreaux, Vevey and Lausanne.  The density of people and buildings plus the most crowded week of the year and the long Swiss weekend did not bode well for accommodation, and that's exactly what happened.  There was one big disco on the coast and at the campsites, apart from the disco, were packed.  Like it or not, with no chance of wild camping - scared of being fined too - I went back 12 km to one of the earlier campsites. It was packed, but I didn't care as I put my tent up at midnight.
The decision to skip cycling through southern Switzerland and the higher mountains was not easy, oh no.  I returned to it several times, but the weather madness was the reason.  So if you are looking for a flatter Switzerland, I recommend the trail along the lakes and rivers, i.e. the northern part of the country. 
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Neglectig Instagram continued.. this photo is a fe Neglectig Instagram continued.. this photo is a few weeks old, but well.. do many wonderful places visited the last months mostly due to #housesitting that it's hard to remember. After Lago di Garda I enjoyed Piemonte and Val d'Aosta and having a few weeks before another assignment I decided to go to north of France. Started with a nice bicycle path along La Seine river. Idyllic landscape, multiple castles with the impressive medieval fortress of Château-Gaillard overlooking the meanders of the Seine, flanked by limestone cliffs.. cycling in France can get as easy and enjoyable as that .. Pushing my bicycle through the chinese Tian Shan feels like an old, unbelievable story here
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- What are you doing here, are you traveling alone - What are you doing here, are you traveling alone?  asked Marco in front of Lidl seeing me packing my groceries. It's still the cheapest market in Italy and sometimes I buy there, although the amount of packaging plastic they use makes me sick. And it was in this market in Peschiera del Garda that I heard the biggest mix of languages for weeks, which made me even more surprised that anyone paid attention to me at all.
 - Do you want to sleep wild?  There are places by the lake, but not here. You can stay at my place if you like, but it's 15 km away - he added. 
Not this time, I was going the other way. 
When at the end of my stay in Tuscany I received a housesitting offer by Lake Garda, I thought to myself - why not?  I was here only once by bike. I've also decided to cancel housesitting gigs in Spain for other reasons.
The lake area is kind of luxurious, a nice change.
This is the largest lake in Italy, an extremely picturesque place.  As befits its post-glacial origin, it is long, the circumference is 160 km and in the northern section it bites into high mountains. Turquoise water, green trimmed lawns and high mountains on the horizon.Very touristy, but it's enough to cycle 5 km from the coast you embrace rolling hills, vineyards, crops and it's very normal and still beautiful.
But nature is not doing so well. Water level in Lake Garda is at its lowest in decades. In the face of the worst flooding in the Po Valley in over years, it's like a paradox. The lakes aren't just views but large bodies of water used in agriculture and power plants. The German press warned their readers,thousands of whom come here on holiday: "Lake Garda is so low that diving is dangerous."
Ps. If you want to support my travel you are welcome. Link in bio. 
Ps.2 I still am more often on FB
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I don't like numbers and don't count on them in th I don't like numbers and don't count on them in the summary of my trip around Sardinia.  I don't know how much I pedaled, what is the sum of elevation gains and stuff.  But wait, I know something! - I spent 16 days there and saw only part of the island. 
This place immediately won my heart, although I would rather avoid it during the season.  The beaches are insane, but it was too cold to swim. And too windy, although if you're lucky the wind blows in your favour. And maybe the prices, it's more expensive than on land.  Hills and mountains nearly everywhere.
Adventages? Nature, vast space, people, traces of indigenous people who once inhabited the island.  Mysterious Nuraghi Towers.  The enormity of traditions that are cultivated for the Sardinians, not for tourists. 
But let's finish describing my tour. I reached the town of Bosa, probably the most charming Sardinian town, where colorful houses are located on the mountainside and there is a castle on top of it. I haven't discovered whether it's a custom or whether painting houses is for tourists, but the fact is that in many Sardinian cities houses have facades in vivid colors and so is Bosa. I walked around the streets of Bosa a bit, ate ice cream and started rolling a few hundred meters up. Instead of the main road, I chose a smaller, more winding and with a greater dose of climbing, which usually provides more attractions and scenic impressions.  You wander through small villages where people say hello and ask where you are from.  Thanks to this, I came across two local celebrations on Sunday, which are related to religion, and on Monday the third one.  Phew!  The most interesting were tractors in floral styling, which later took part in the procession.
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The winds will blow as they want my mother used to The winds will blow as they want my mother used to say - and in Sardinia the winds usually blow counter-clockwise.  When I reached Olbia on the east coast of Sardinia, I should have started cycling west. However, I was too keen to see the feast of Saint Efisio in Cagliari in the south of the island, so I decided to go there by train and disturbed this windy order. I got off the station before the city to find a quiet corner behind a bush for the night.  From there I went to Cagliari.
I saw the amazing fiesta and crawled out of town slowly.  Islands are islands, you can always count on wind blowing there.  And it blew right in my face.  I did 20km that afternoon and didn't enjoy it at all.
 I had an ambitious plan to conquer the interior and the east of the island, which is famous for its beauty, and it was.  Huge spaces, greenery, grazing cattle... we like it that way.  Extremely steep climbs and my bike loaded after the winter did their job - two days of struggling with them reduced my urges to push east, which is considered the most beautiful part of the island.  Willingly or not, after seeing the UNESCO site which are the ruins of the Bronze Age village in Barumini, the people of Sardinia called the Nuraghias, I climbed even higher and then went back to the sea to Oristano and packed the train back to Olbia.  Just to go with the wind along the coast. I wanted to see some of this emerald sea.  So I did, cycling the Costa Smeralda. The sun was shining beautifully, I didn't feel like taking a bath or staying in the sun. It's still too cold.  But the views alone are enough for me.
Nature are Number One in Sardinia.  The architecture was unobtrusive, not to say ugly.  Surprise. After seeing the gems of Tuscany and Puglia, this was a bit of a disappointment.  But, there are beautiful murals everywhere!
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On my last, or penultimate, weekend in Tuscany thi On my last, or penultimate, weekend in Tuscany this spring, I was to wind my way through the roads of the Chianti hills. Yes, that's where the ones famous of wine-making (in the store ask for "kianti", not "cianti") and the place of the beginning of the l'Eroica bike race. I was there 10 years ago, and all in all, the hills around me are plentiful, but just to refresh my memory, stretch my calves and catch the first sun? I don't live too close, the cats had company over the weekend so I thought - well, how about a two-day trip? 
I didn't want to pack all the lodging equipment for one night, but two accommodation search engines had bad news, however - in an area of 150 km x 100 km for the night from Saturday to Sunday there was not a single vacant accommodation! Mount Amiata. On the second one the cheapest offers for more than 200 EUR.  The long Italian weekend has begun (April 25, Italy celebrates "Festa della Librazione" - Liberation Day). On top of that, the region is mega-touristy, and there is no camping apart from Siena. Let’s pack uwellell. 
Set off slowly like a tortoise ... past Asciano I entered, in the sense of pushed, on the famous white gravel roads, along which the route of the Eroica race leads and then even more slowlier!  I was occasionally passed by cyclists travelling light and on E-bikes, because that's the only way they cycle here. Envious. Eroica roads are for eagles or I need to revise my physical capabilities. I don't know what killed me more, the steepness of the roads or the number of motorcyclists on their roaring machines, but by the evening I decided that I've had and seen enough, I'm going back. And those dozen kilometers of return home in the dark - because nearly no vehicles anymore, listening to the sounds of the night, were perhaps as beautiful as the Tuscan and Sienese landscapes in spring.
And in a few days, a new cycling stage.
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"Christmas with yours, Easter with whoever you want", "Christm "Christmas with yours, Easter with whoever you want", "Christmas with the family, Easter with whoever you want" - according to this saying, Easter in Italy is often spent away from home, with family or friends.  The beginning of the picnic season, one might say, the welcome of spring.  Children are given chocolate eggs.  Accommodation places are booked long before Christmas.  Although you can't generalize - in many homes everything from A to Z is cooked.
The Easter traditions hold strong in the south of the country, in Sicily and even in Puglia, but although I was hoping to participate, unfortunately I was not able to be there at that time again.  The processions that take place on Good Friday, are very solemn and gather hundreds of participants.  I really like to peek at local customs, but in Tuscany there is not much to see 🙃, unless watching hundreds of visitors would count as such.  It's interesting that when I searched (in three languages) for "Easter in Tuscany", I mainly see offers of accommodation and trips.  When I searched for "Easter in Puglia", the search engine shows mainly religious rites and local traditions.

This year spring is late, the trees are blooming, but the leaves are still on hold. Three days ago we had frost at night, it's supposed to rain during Easter. In fact, it's just about to start.  Yes, I've seen what's going on with the weather in Poland, I'm not complaining! 

So I jumped on my bike before this rain for a pre-Easter bike ride to Trequanda. I haven't been there yet this year.  This is another insanely picturesque road with a view of Monte Amiata and Crete Senesi.
 I enclose a handful of photos to whet your appetite for Tuscany and wish you a good Easter time.  Rest and live it as you like.
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