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Category:

Armenia

    ArmeniaAsiaSilk RoadCaucasus

    Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by bike – my place on earth

    by Ewcyna 15 November 2020
    written by Ewcyna

    – What did you do in Azerbaijan? The border guard in Sadakhlo carefully leafed through my passport. Armenia does not welcome people with open arms, which were in Azerbaijan - I knew that, but here it genuinely chilled. The guard was very serious, he kept me at the window for quite a long time and only the number of stamps in his passport convinced him, that it just happened - Azerbaijan was on the way during my trip from China to Europe and I am probably not a spy. Entry in reverse order - to Azerbaijan with an Armenian stamp is reportedly not possible at all. Entering Azerbaijan with a trace of a stay in Nagorno-Karabakh can mean big trouble. Thanks, that my trip to the Caucasus was in this, and not a different order (Azerbaijan - Georgia - Armenia - Georgia) I was able to visit all three main countries of the region.

    khachkars – roadside crosses. Everyone else

    You think Armenia and what comes to your mind? - a tiny country in the central Caucasus, magnificent mountain views and old monasteries lost somewhere on their slopes. One of the oldest in the world – some date from the 10th-13th centuries. Armenians emphasize at every turn, that they are the world's first Christian country. Fact, the state was baptized in 301 year CE

    The main road from Tbilisi to Armenia goes through the Debed gorge. Almost several hundred meters high, almost vertical walls and a river of the same name meandering below. For two days I cycle through it, and then on the advice of the Englishman encountered, who knows Armenia like his own pocket and is here to do a Bradt guide update (the best and my favorite!) I climb serpentine over 400 meters up. This is definitely a much better option - unlike the one going along the river, the road is empty here and the accompanying view from the top to the ravine edges is incredibly beautiful.  I have to say, that John's tips would prove invaluable in laying the itinerary in the days and weeks to come.  

    wąwóz Debed

    I stay in Alaverdi for two nights - this is the first major city on the way, quite dilapidated in itself, industrial, but in its vicinity there is one of the most beautiful Armenian monasteries, entered on the UNESCO list – Haghpat i Sanahin.

    The sad legacy of the Soviet Union

    After a few days and two mountain passes, it continues towards Lake Sevan, the largest lake in the Caucasus, situated at an altitude of 1,800 meters above sea level, duma Armenii. There is a steep and busy road leading to the pass above 2000 meters. However, I choose a different variant of the route, which the Englishman also recommended to me, longer but with a gentler entry "only" 50 km uphill. And then from on high 2200 m above sea level, exit to the lake. A long-awaited meeting.

    Meeting with Lake Sevan

    Błękitna tafla, around a chain of snow-capped peaks on the horizon. Peaceful area, although if I will be here again in less than a month it will not be so quiet. One hundred thousand places to pitch a tent. And of course there is a storm on the horizon because a day without a storm is a day wasted (one to four every day).

    At the campsite, which is still closed, where I look to ask for water, I get a free bungalow at my own disposal. I can calmly listen to the thunder and lightning outside the window. The owner urges me to visit Nagorno-Karabakh, because it's basically a stone's throw away… Territory, which officially lies within the borders of Azerbaijan, but it has been an Armenian land for hundreds of years. The war for Gorse-Karabakh broke out 30 years ago, The Armenians took the territory and the capital Stepanakert, The Azeris fled. War, though it faded a bit, still in progress. Nagorno-Karabakh is an unrecognized state. Do not know, I do not know how to plan a further route yet, I did not plan Nagorno-Karabakh, but the appetite grows as you drive. But in the meantime, I decided to take a different direction - to the capital, Yerevan.

    Yerevan

    I came to the capital of Armenia for several reasons, let's call them organizational and health. Both the first and the second were handled positively. King, tourist from Poland turned off on the forum, she delivered me a package with new things and the doctor said, that I will live - fortunately everything is taken care of again under travel insurance. Somehow in the Caucasus I used the limit from a few yearst.

    Yerevan is not that nightmarish, as they sometimes describe him – it is a city full of life and the show of singing fountains on Revolution Square is no less successful than the one in Warsaw. When the rain chases away the haze and smog, walking down the street until I stopped with the impression. HE appeared. Snow-capped peak Ararat. Mountain – volcano, at whose feet the ark of Noah sat according to the Bible. Ararat is very important to the Armenians, it still even appears in the country's coat of arms though … it is currently located in Turkey, around 30 km kilometers from the border. Border, which cannot be exceeded.     

    view of Ararat from Yerevan
    Ararat is out there somewhere..

    I knew from the beginning, that I want to return to Lake Sevan, I didn't smile too much, however, going back the same way and climbing 1000 meters vertically, but but! After all, the train runs once a day during the season. I am going there with the first course in the season. I'm buying a ticket, a delegation of officials in white shirts and ties, visiting a pimped clean train, bows to the waist, wishing me a good trip. Distance over 100 km will cost you 2 dollars and not the minimum 30 as taxi drivers want.

    – I still have a bicycle, how much is the ticket?

    – Od was, We don't take from Russians

    – But I am Polish!

    – And that's even more so!

    While still in Yerevan, I decided, that I will go to Nagorno-Karabakh, although the Polish ambassador to Armenia, with whom I had the pleasure to meet, warned me, that if something happened there, then they won't be able to help me. It is clear, it's still part of Azerbaijan, officially annexed by the Armenians. Two weeks earlier, a German friend of mine was driving there, which convinced me. And because all roads (that is, one from the south) lead to Yerevan, I also left some luggage there at the hostel, because I was going to go back there anyway.

    – How beautiful you are here! I show a met man a wonderful view of Lake Sevan.

    – It was beautiful there, where I was born.

    – And where were you born??

    – in Ganja..

    I'm not saying anything. Nothing can be said here. Ganja is one of the largest cities in Azerbaijan. We are in Armenia. It is clear, that my interlocutor will not come back to Ganja.

    June is probably the most beautiful in Armenia

    Ashot invited me to his son's house. The next storm is raging and although I was ready to spend the night by the lake, it is probably worth taking advantage of. Hail starts to fall on the way, so we quickly jump into the neighbors' yard.

    – We are from Baku I hear over a glass of warming tea. The hostess does 55 years. The house is barely keeping up. Often there will not be 1988 when the persecution of Armenians in Azerbaijan began, we caught what was at hand and 5 in the morning we left our hometown. And we've been sitting here in the village since 30 years. My, city ​​people She waves her hand resignedly and stirs the sugar in the glass for a long time.

    The Azeris lived here on Lake Sevan. They had to leave overnight, just like the Armenians of Azerbaijan. In one night. The authorities accommodated them in the homes of their enemies.  

    I feel, as if I were reading an excerpt from a book by Tomasz Grzywaczewski “The boundaries of dreams, about unrecognized countries”. Read on too, worth it.

    Caravanserai on the Selim Pass

    I took the road to the Selim Pass- 2440 meters because I know, that the descent by hairpin bends over 1000 meters down is one of the most beautiful in Armenia. By Murphe's law a storm has come, some 1-2 km before the summit. I got a decent hail, but luckily not lightning. I know, that somewhere near the top is an old caravanserai, which served merchants wandering along the Silk Road from over 700 years. Thunder overhead, hail on the cheeks but in the end – yes! I hide in an ancient building and immediately put water on for tea. After half an hour, the rainbow announces the end of the storm. I spend the night on the mountain pass. In the morning I feel very anxious to move so beautiful the view. And then a loooong deserved ride.

    overnight at the Selim Pass

    They say hurry up slowly, but everyone knows, I'm not in a rush at all! I do my last shopping in Goris town, laughter and chatting with taxi drivers, when my foot slips away, slide that step and I only feel great pain. I know, that I won't go today. In the hospital it turns out, that there is no break, but the foot is swollen and well. Twist, swelling, pain… it is impossible to drive. Broken down, I roll to the city center in the valley and fall on the bed in the hostel. When I finally leave the next day I can see, as beautiful here. The surrounding karst rocks look amazing, especially during sunset. People have lived in the caves there since the Middle Ages. And the town itself is more like Tuscany than Armenia – famous for its stable basalt stone houses, which were supposed to protect against frequent earthquakes. And fortunately, post-Soviet factories do not threaten here. If it wasn't for this leg, I would not see this gem!

    • views in Goris

    The road from Goris is straight - actually winding to Nagorno-Karabakh. The border is there, but for a visa, which you get on a small piece of paper, which they do not stick to their passports gets in the capital of Arcach - that's what Armenians call Nagorno-Karabakh - Stepanakert.  

    road to Nagorno-Karabakh
    on the border
    Nagorno-Karabakh – endless streamers

    The decision to enter Nagorno-Karabakh is not easy. I hesitate to the end. Still overnight in a tent a few kilometers from the border of the self-proclaimed republic, I think what to do. I hear shots at night.. no, it is not game hunting, are bursts from a rifle. But she doesn't want to get back on the road, which I came. Only mountains around. A crazy landscape, excellent recently completed road and long, long driveway. My injured foot is not in the best shape. After 30 km of climb, time for the exit and the village of Shushi.. In the past it was inhabited by the Azerbaijani people, haunts empty apartment blocks and two mosques that, surprisingly, have survived - what's more, are being renewed.

    A shopkeeper at a roadside shop hastily drew me a map of the Caucasus, to introduce, how are territorial matters?. And I only went there for bread. He spares no curses on Azerbaijan, hate even spills out. I love Armenia and I wish both countries, Armenia and Azerbaijan the best, first of all, they would come to an agreement and not want to kill each other.

    Papik i Tatik, symbol Arcachu

    In Nagorno-Karabakh I pass the village of Khojali (Chodżały). It was here that the Armenians almost massacred 700 fleeing Azeris. In Azerbaijan, monuments to those who died in Khojakli are everywhere. And although it has nothing to do with 1,5 a million Armenians killed by the Turks at the beginning of the 20th century, it is a fact. The scale is incomparable, but both sides have something on their conscience.

    Stepanakert, the capital of Nagorno-Karabakh is something else- the center has many new buildings, playgrounds, carousels.. life goes on like everywhere else. And only the presence of the army shows that the place is unique. Self-proclaimed Armenian republic in the territory of Azerbaijan.

    The main square in Stepanakert – the capital of Nagorno-Karabakh

    I go down from the pass straight to Sevan. This journey is about discovering my places on earth and this crazy lake is one of them. I put the tent up above the waterline and let myself stop. I am staying for two nights and I would really like to live here. The leg needs to rest.

    Sewan. My place on earth

    Then I return to Yerevan for a while and head back to Georgia. Over a month in Armenia, like a lot but still not enough, but I still have so much to see.

    One more stop in Gyumri, which suffered greatly during the earthquake in 1988 year, and now it is being carefully rebuilt. A city similar to Goris in the south of Armenia deserves more interest from visitors –  The nineteenth century architecture is characterized by Russian influences, dark stone interspersed with rusty, it is strange, that so few tourists come here.

    On the way to Gyumri you are right on the border with Turkey, and on the other side the ruins of Ani, one of the oldest cities in Armenia
    Gyumri Street

    From Gyumri it's just climbing to the border crossing 2100 meters, fighting the gale, the last glance at the flowery meadows, which are turning yellow more and more often, color and sun fumes.. again, after 5 weeks. Georgia is on my mind.

    Linked:

    • Azerbejdżan. Wywczasy w Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś na podróż?
      Azerbaijan. Holiday in Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś…
    • Wjazd do Iranu - księżycowy Keszm i sinusoida wrażeń
      Entry to Iran - lunar Keshm and sweet-bitter sensations
    • Gruzja i po płaskim? - rowerem przez step Kachetii i dolinę Alazani
      Georgia on the flat? - rowerem przez step Kachetii i dolinę…
    • Z Sziraz do Yazd czyli irańskie miejsko-pustynne impresje
      From Shiraz to Yazd. Iranian urban-desert impressions
    • Iran, let's bike again!
      Iran, let's bike again!
    15 November 2020 2 comments
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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Hope it'll bring you health and happiness. 
It's been 5 years! Still on my mind 
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #cyclingwomen #cyclingiran #adventurecycling #silkroad #novruzbayramı #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #persia #esfahan #roweremprzeświat #wolność #polskieblogipodróżcze #solotraveller #biketouring # #shetravels
To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and reach an agreement with myself - to go or not to go, where to?  From my Tuscan solitude, 30 km both ways may not impress, but 800 meters of climbing yes. On Saturdays one can choose between Buonconvento or Asciano, because both have vegetable markets and although they are no match for the Polish or Apulian ones, they are also twice as expensive as the latter as well, but at least they exist.  And since I eat vegetables like a rabbit and say no to plastic wrapping in supermarkets I had to go.  This time I didn't even need that much but since the weather was great, I decided that maybe I'll go to Asciano to see if the medieval walls haven't collapsed yet.  I report that they are standing still, the town on the ancient route of Via Laurentina is doing well and there were even quite a few tourists who exposed their faces to the sun over a cup of espresso or other prosecco.  The cycling season has also started, although mainly e-bikes and road bikes rule, there are plenty of cyclists, and in April and May it will be the apogee.  I mumbled in the bakery about the lack of good bread though, I've already told you that in Tuscany it is baked from white flour without salt and it's so bland.. One tiny reason to complain about this heaven. You can forget about Apulian brown loaves with a thick crust, so I bought two kilos of flour and I will bake by myself. 
 I could return taking the same or an alternative, more demanding route, a moment of hesitation, but I chose the latter.  It is even more beautiful in terms of views, it cuts through the heart of the Sienese clays and the traffic there is negligible.  Crowds come here for photography shooting and me just went shopping... 
Where did you go on your bike today? 
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Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Yes, that? Uncertain about it? I have, numerous times in Europe, luckily mostly it went smoothly. And one big failure..that finished well.

Dreaming of a bicycle trip around France or sunny Italy, experiencing the great cycling infrastructure in Germany, a trip to the Hungarian Lake Balaton or Poland? How to get there with a bike? If you don't like flying, trains fail or are too expensive, Flixbus could be an option, to reach the place with a bicycle. Sometimes it's simple, but beware – it's is not always the case.

It's time to plan our summer trips so here I come with my blog post on Flixbus and bicycles. Step by step guide with lots of photos, screenshots and links. 

Questions answered:
Can I transport a bike on Flixbus?  What does it look like?  How to search for connections?  Do I have to dismantle and pack my bike?  What problems may arise and how to avoid them. And what if we can't ..?

Any experience in this regard?  #flixbus
👉Link in my bio 

 Ps.  I created this post with other people in mind and it took me a long time.
 Did you find it useful?  Cool!  Pass it on. Buy me a coffee!
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#europebybike #bikeonabus #rower #flixbusrower #womenonbikes #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail. you Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail.  you know it, right?  No idea how it happened, but until now, despite numerous stays in Italy I have not seen the ancient city of Pompeii.
 But that's the past!  Last Sunday, making a stop on my way from the south of Italy to the north, I finally visited this extraordinary place.  Me and thousands of others 😁. There were crowds.  Maybe even bigger than usual.
 Sunday was a weather window between days of rain because it still rains a lot.  But not only.  It was also the first Sunday of the month, and on the first Sunday of the month in Italy it was declared "Sunday at the Museum", when admission to most museum monuments in the country is free, Pompeii too.  I was planning a stop on the road for this Sunday, so it was great! Already in the morning the queue was sky -high but made it smoothly in.
 I walked the stone streets of Pompeii with my jaw dropped.  I had no idea how huge this area is!  A regular port city, it used to lie on the seashore.  Beautiful villas, an amphitheater, a theater, speeches, temples, baths, even a brothel.  The love of art can be seen everywhere, frescoes, sculptures. The tragic volcano Vesuvius still reigns over the city.
 In terms of trials and intentions, however, there still be the Amalfi Coast - a mountainous promontory jutting into the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea south of Naples, which is famous for its insane views.  Positano and Sorrento are the names of real cities on the Amalfi coast, not just pizzerias 😉. Well, I missed a few days and the weather. 
Next time
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#pompei #italiainbici #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #biketouring #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling # bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #domenicaalmuseo
It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing yourself in the landscape of Italian postcards?  Dolce vita viewed from your bicycle? 

In my new blog post let me take you to Tuscany for cycling in the Orcia river valley.  I've spent many months there and go back frequently in different seasons (yes, just in a week!). I got to know this region really well and fell in love with it just like everyone else.

Val D'Orcia makes the most of what Italian landscape is - medieval stone towns on the hills, picturesque roads lined with cypress trees, winding gorges, vineyards and olive groves and all this creates fantastic, almost fabulous landscapes. A UNESCO heritage and an AMAZING bike spot in one.

Hold on, because the views knock you off the couch 🙂 It is here, through the winding roads of Tuscany, that the routes of iconic bicycle routes lead - the vintage race L'Eroica, the high-performance Tuscany Trail and the ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome - Via Francingena. You will cross the famous "strade bianche" - roads made of almost white gravel. One thing is for sure - you won't be the only one riding a bike. And not the only one to sweat - yes, it's all about the hills!

Follow a link in my bio 
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#eroica #valdorcia #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzezświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the It Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the Italian heel again and spring in the air- I cycled to some of the oldest groves in Puglia. The olive trees - some over a thousand years old, have their trunks wrapping around the gnarled base before splitting and walking away from their other parts. The olive oil has become substantial part of my diet and here it tastes great. 40% of Italian olive oil comes from Puglia!
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#italybybike #puglia #olivetree #apulia #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #outdoorwoman #bike #onmybike #polskieblogpodrozcze #freedom #bikewander #outsideisfree #solotravel #worldbycycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #outsideisfree
Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea made my (1st of a year) day.
A great start I would say. 
2023 - let it be... A good one! Yet another. Wishing you all.
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#italybybike #pugliainbici #outdoorwomen #cyclinglifestyle #travelbike #freedom #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solotraveller #biketouring #polignanoamare #apulia
#rowerem #onmybike #Puglia #happynewyear #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
"Natale con i suoi, Easter with whoever you want" - "Christ "Natale con i suoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" - "Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you want" says the Italian proverb, according to it, on the first day of Christmas, December 25, after 2 p.m., Italy stops. And then, the square was full of people, cafe bustle, conversations, drinks to warm up before a long afternoon at the table and then ... silence. Nobody. Christmas dinner is the main, most important point of Christmas celebrations, just like Christmas Eve in Poland. Santo Stefano day, December 26th is traditionally spent walking, sightseeing, outdoors. And now not a single car passed by me, but another cyclist did!  Fantastic weather - blue sky, sun, about 17 degrees.
Wandering around the streets, the kitchen windows are open and I can smell fried fish. Once upon a time I came to Italy for a holiday with $300 in my pocket (which I put aside all year long by giving English classes), which was supposed to last for 2 months. And it did. Sleeping under the sky as I didn't even have a tent, hitchhiking..the only food I had was bread with onions and Calve mayonnaise.  This mayonnaise was my discovery, and sweet onions too.  The main point of the day and the only luxury I allowed myself was a cup of cappuccino - before I ordered it, however, I walked around and looked at the tables of the cafes in which cups they serve them in - I wanted as big as possible.  Then I sat for an hour, tasting the remnants of milk foam with a spoon. The smell of tomato sauce coming from the open windows annoyed me because I was craving dinner so much. Today I remembered that smell from 30 years back.
 I have lunch at home, and cappuccino is also sometimes, thanks to your donations as well (I still look at the cups 🙃). And on the wall today I read the quote "Limits exist only in the soul of those who do not dream". But it was pathetic.  Let's dream, let's fulfill...
I wish you many good dinners and moments spent as you wish.  I was on a bike 😁.
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #christmasvibe
Today it's December 10th and it is a special date Today it's December 10th and it is a special date for me. On 10 Dec 2013, I locked my door, gave the key to the new tenant, packed the box with my bike into my neighbor's car and flew off on a trip with a one-way ticket. To the other side of the world, the Philippines. The decision-making process wasn't particularly long and was born after cycling Japan, but I had been preparing for this escapade for several months. Organizing my life, buying a new bike (to make it "easier" I went to Berlin twice in one week) and other equipment, buying various insurances, arranging vaccinations - each step meant a lot of time spent on choosing one option or another, finally packing life into boxes and taking it to the basement and flying to Manila with a short stay in Shanghai on the way. I chose the Philippines knowing absolutely nothing about it. There was a promotion on KLM tickets and this destination seemed to me OK. It wasn't that much OK as it turned out, but I still managed to spend there and even pedal for 7 weeks 🙂. For the first 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Sophia. 
Gees, it's been 9 years, and I can't stop! After the Philippines I flew to Burma, then cycled through Thailand, Laos, China.... I don't know if I'll go back to Southeast Asia, because I'm sweating at the thought of it, but going through my posts (quite clumsy, it's the beginnings of the blog) made me very happy. If you feel like it go to my my webpage #Ewcyna. What an excitement it was!
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