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Category:

Georgia

    nocleg w namiocie Gruzja
    GeorgiaSilk RoadCaucasus

    Georgia on the flat? – cycling through the steppe of Kakheti and the Alazani valley

    by Ewcyna 18 June 2020
    written by Ewcyna
    accommodation in a tent Georgia

    “Polish trail” in Georgia begins, looking from the east on the border with Azerbaijan in Lagodekhi, pulls through the charming Sighnaghi, located "in the middle of nothing" or in the steppe the village of Udabno and then hen through Tbilisi, Burning, to the Black Sea coast to Batumi and probably many other places along the way. This is by no means a trail of struggles and martyrdom of the Polish nation. Yes, martyrdom, manifests itself in quite difficult in cooperation with the local people to renovate homes and apartments, to adapt them to guesthouses, hostels and pubs, i.e. broadly understood tourist infrastructure. Poles love Georgia and come here in crowds, visit and live more often. Georgia is beautiful, tasty and business-friendly because taxes are negligible (or none?). And no visa is required for a year's stay. An émigré paradise when you have a business line, cash or retirement.

    road national park Georgia
    Lagodekhi street
    Czink, my favorite dish in Georgia

    After two weeks of cycling in Georgia, you can find yourself on the other side of the country and say hello to the Black Sea, but you know - I roll slowly, and sometimes I don't even roll – I didn't even reach the capital of Tbilisi, and there is some 150 km from border crossing. Polish woman can! First, I fell into the arms of Mr. Jerzy Ciemnomłoński, who lived in Georgia for many years running a small guest house, which is a great base for the nature reserve in Lagodheki, then I fell into the arms of the valley famous for the vineyards of the Alazani valley, picturesquely situated between the ranges of the Caucasus mountains, so I went around enjoying my eyes, to fall into the arms of Piotr and Cecylia, Leading Poles Peter’s guesthouse in the extremely picturesque town of Sighnahgi. I made a loop and returned near the Georgian-Azerbaijani border to sink into the steppe (yes, there is a steppe in Georgia!) and hills leading to the monastery complex of David Gareja.

    access to Udabno
    road through the steppe to Udabno in May
    visiting the Gremi monastery
    monastyr gremi, Alazani Valley
    frescoes at the Gremi Monastery
    is it worth going to Sighanghi
    panorama Sighnaghi
    where to sleep Sighnaghi Peter's guesthouse
    view from Telavi
    view of the Caucasus from Telavi
    vineyards in Kakheti valley Alazani
    Kachetia vineyards
    strawberry collection Georgia
    in mid-May such collections!

    This is a beautiful place! I didn't fall into my arms here, but I visited a cult pub and hostel run by Poles in the village of Udabno, forgotten in the steppe. I met many countrymen there and more, the place has a nice atmosphere, but some tourist accretions, which are reflected, among others, in quite high prices for Georgia.  

    Oasis Club w Udabno
    Oasis Club Udabno
    accommodation in a tent Georgia
    I crashed in the steppe 1,5 km behind the hostel

    Speaking of spring steppe, we forget about adjectives such as “dry, washy, brown”. This is not a steppe, through which I drove in late summer and fall in Central Asia. The steppe in May blooms. Green-yellow tracts of grass stretched to the horizon, which supposedly inhabits a lot of venomous vipers. Judging by the number of those who live on the road, there are even more, so I looked around carefully when setting up the tent.

    Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
    In the direction of Udabno and David Gareji the road climbs slightly for several dozen kilometers
    road to Udabno
    are the troops in Georgia dangerous?
    forcing sheep

    In May, shepherds bring sheep away, herd for herd, dozens, hundreds of thousands of healing animals.  

    The wine is not, at least it shouldn't be the cyclist's basic drink, but Kachetia is full of vineyards. I leave tastings with it, who want to make substantial purchases, enough for me from time to time a bottle-keeper from roadside home supplies.

    wine from domestic bottling plants in Georgia

    Psy.. about dogs in the Caucasus can be long, these shepherds are awesome, but dogs are treated here per leg and kick, they are here everywhere and desperately, they earnestly and earnestly seek love and belonging. My new way to do this is to talk friendships - believe me, works wonders. The dog is stupid, he looks and starts wagging his tail (note - unfortunately it doesn't work in Poland).

    or be afraid of dogs in Georgia

    That's how it was with the park of young dogs, which have separated from over a dozen others, which I pacified with a good word..   they clung to me, regardless of being sent to hell repeatedly, they followed me for eight kilometers, because the driveway counted so much and they watched with devotion at night. Rudy went to sleep and the pinto or spark was barking or barking cyclically. In the morning I wondered what I would do with two mouths on the road, but at the congress Rudy disappeared first and Łaciaty was unbearable. He managed through 15 km looking only at me with a questioning look for why and why I am so fast. My heart was breaking.

    the dogs were watching over the tent

    I am begging you for forgiveness, I couldn't tug the dog trailers with me yet ...

    I got the impression, that with entering Georgia it lost its journey in the broadly understood exoticism, she rewarded her with a sense of security and security, how desirable, ease of use for the country. This ease is made up of the post-communist climate familiar from the old Polish reality, the ability to communicate in Russian and, however, a religion, because it's a Christian country.

    view of Tbilisi
    view of Tbilisi from the fortress

    Tbilisi, where I spent almost a week, it wasn't love at first sight. The meeting with the capital of Georgia and the first nights were in the older part of the city, around the train station and the views were more depressing than charming. Stare, neglected houses that have a long time behind them and feel, that people often live here in difficult conditions. However, it was valuable to be able to observe the local life going on from morning to dusk. Lots of young people, lots of alcohol, which is a necessity article and proudly presents itself in rows in storefronts. Centrum Tbilisi, the old town, which boasts colorful balconies, is overwhelmed and obviously taken over by tourists. “It happened so fast, that we can't get used to it” said my host.

    Only once I went sightseeing and I was happy with it. Although the view from the hill and the fortress of Narikala was delightful and I couldn't stop focusing, I was much more excited about taming the city by taking a bus on it. How to buy a ticket, where to get off? These things can be a challenge. There were a lot of things to do again. Buy a gas cylinder, clothes, include a dentist. The bicycle to the steep and crowded streets was hardly advisable and I gave it a rest.

    in a non-rolling version
    view of the Narikala fortress

    At that time, Georgia was celebrated 100 summer regaining independence, even the Polish president has arrived. It rained all afternoon, the storm passed and I saw almost none of these celebrations, but unlike the homeland, the festival is celebrated here seriously and joyfully and without smoke flares.

    People are kind. Almost every day someone stopped asking, I don't need help. The sight of the tent set up somewhere in the field or on the outskirts of the vineyard did not arouse much emotion, just a few questions, smiles, attentions. No insistence or meddling. This is cool, even very much.

    exit 150 meters to the road from this accommodation gave me a job on 3 hours..
    washing the bike on the route

    May hit the greenery, but it was very rainy. I even spent two nights plus the whole day in between without leaving the tent 30 km from the border with Armenia, because I didn't want to stop raining and I don't like to ride in the rain or roll up a wet tent.. I was still going back to Georgia, but now another country was planned, which I was extremely curious about – Armenia!

    Georgia Georgia border

    Linked:

    • Armenia i Górski Karabach rowerem - moje miejsce na ziemi
      Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by bike - my place on earth
    • Azerbejdżan. Wywczasy w Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś na podróż?
      Azerbaijan. Holiday in Baku - czy ty też się ubezpieczyłeś…
    • Z Sziraz do Yazd czyli irańskie miejsko-pustynne impresje
      From Shiraz to Yazd. Iranian urban-desert impressions
    • Iran, let's bike again!
      Iran, let's bike again!
    • Wjazd do Iranu - księżycowy Keszm i sinusoida wrażeń
      Entry to Iran - lunar Keshm and sweet-bitter sensations
    18 June 2020 0 comment
    0 Facebook<span class="share-count">11</span>Email
Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Hope it'll bring you health and happiness. 
It's been 5 years! Still on my mind 
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #cyclingwomen #cyclingiran #adventurecycling #silkroad #novruzbayramı #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #persia #esfahan #roweremprzeświat #wolność #polskieblogipodróżcze #solotraveller #biketouring # #shetravels
To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and reach an agreement with myself - to go or not to go, where to?  From my Tuscan solitude, 30 km both ways may not impress, but 800 meters of climbing yes. On Saturdays one can choose between Buonconvento or Asciano, because both have vegetable markets and although they are no match for the Polish or Apulian ones, they are also twice as expensive as the latter as well, but at least they exist.  And since I eat vegetables like a rabbit and say no to plastic wrapping in supermarkets I had to go.  This time I didn't even need that much but since the weather was great, I decided that maybe I'll go to Asciano to see if the medieval walls haven't collapsed yet.  I report that they are standing still, the town on the ancient route of Via Laurentina is doing well and there were even quite a few tourists who exposed their faces to the sun over a cup of espresso or other prosecco.  The cycling season has also started, although mainly e-bikes and road bikes rule, there are plenty of cyclists, and in April and May it will be the apogee.  I mumbled in the bakery about the lack of good bread though, I've already told you that in Tuscany it is baked from white flour without salt and it's so bland.. One tiny reason to complain about this heaven. You can forget about Apulian brown loaves with a thick crust, so I bought two kilos of flour and I will bake by myself. 
 I could return taking the same or an alternative, more demanding route, a moment of hesitation, but I chose the latter.  It is even more beautiful in terms of views, it cuts through the heart of the Sienese clays and the traffic there is negligible.  Crowds come here for photography shooting and me just went shopping... 
Where did you go on your bike today? 
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#italiainbici #italybybike #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #cretesenesi #solotraveller #biketouring #by bike #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskipodróżcze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling # bybike #lifeofadventure #toscanagram #toscana
Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Yes, that? Uncertain about it? I have, numerous times in Europe, luckily mostly it went smoothly. And one big failure..that finished well.

Dreaming of a bicycle trip around France or sunny Italy, experiencing the great cycling infrastructure in Germany, a trip to the Hungarian Lake Balaton or Poland? How to get there with a bike? If you don't like flying, trains fail or are too expensive, Flixbus could be an option, to reach the place with a bicycle. Sometimes it's simple, but beware – it's is not always the case.

It's time to plan our summer trips so here I come with my blog post on Flixbus and bicycles. Step by step guide with lots of photos, screenshots and links. 

Questions answered:
Can I transport a bike on Flixbus?  What does it look like?  How to search for connections?  Do I have to dismantle and pack my bike?  What problems may arise and how to avoid them. And what if we can't ..?

Any experience in this regard?  #flixbus
👉Link in my bio 

 Ps.  I created this post with other people in mind and it took me a long time.
 Did you find it useful?  Cool!  Pass it on. Buy me a coffee!
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#europebybike #bikeonabus #rower #flixbusrower #womenonbikes #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail. you Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail.  you know it, right?  No idea how it happened, but until now, despite numerous stays in Italy I have not seen the ancient city of Pompeii.
 But that's the past!  Last Sunday, making a stop on my way from the south of Italy to the north, I finally visited this extraordinary place.  Me and thousands of others 😁. There were crowds.  Maybe even bigger than usual.
 Sunday was a weather window between days of rain because it still rains a lot.  But not only.  It was also the first Sunday of the month, and on the first Sunday of the month in Italy it was declared "Sunday at the Museum", when admission to most museum monuments in the country is free, Pompeii too.  I was planning a stop on the road for this Sunday, so it was great! Already in the morning the queue was sky -high but made it smoothly in.
 I walked the stone streets of Pompeii with my jaw dropped.  I had no idea how huge this area is!  A regular port city, it used to lie on the seashore.  Beautiful villas, an amphitheater, a theater, speeches, temples, baths, even a brothel.  The love of art can be seen everywhere, frescoes, sculptures. The tragic volcano Vesuvius still reigns over the city.
 In terms of trials and intentions, however, there still be the Amalfi Coast - a mountainous promontory jutting into the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea south of Naples, which is famous for its insane views.  Positano and Sorrento are the names of real cities on the Amalfi coast, not just pizzerias 😉. Well, I missed a few days and the weather. 
Next time
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#pompei #italiainbici #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #biketouring #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling # bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #domenicaalmuseo
It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing yourself in the landscape of Italian postcards?  Dolce vita viewed from your bicycle? 

In my new blog post let me take you to Tuscany for cycling in the Orcia river valley.  I've spent many months there and go back frequently in different seasons (yes, just in a week!). I got to know this region really well and fell in love with it just like everyone else.

Val D'Orcia makes the most of what Italian landscape is - medieval stone towns on the hills, picturesque roads lined with cypress trees, winding gorges, vineyards and olive groves and all this creates fantastic, almost fabulous landscapes. A UNESCO heritage and an AMAZING bike spot in one.

Hold on, because the views knock you off the couch 🙂 It is here, through the winding roads of Tuscany, that the routes of iconic bicycle routes lead - the vintage race L'Eroica, the high-performance Tuscany Trail and the ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome - Via Francingena. You will cross the famous "strade bianche" - roads made of almost white gravel. One thing is for sure - you won't be the only one riding a bike. And not the only one to sweat - yes, it's all about the hills!

Follow a link in my bio 
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#eroica #valdorcia #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzezświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the It Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the Italian heel again and spring in the air- I cycled to some of the oldest groves in Puglia. The olive trees - some over a thousand years old, have their trunks wrapping around the gnarled base before splitting and walking away from their other parts. The olive oil has become substantial part of my diet and here it tastes great. 40% of Italian olive oil comes from Puglia!
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#italybybike #puglia #olivetree #apulia #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #outdoorwoman #bike #onmybike #polskieblogpodrozcze #freedom #bikewander #outsideisfree #solotravel #worldbycycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #outsideisfree
Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea made my (1st of a year) day.
A great start I would say. 
2023 - let it be... A good one! Yet another. Wishing you all.
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#italybybike #pugliainbici #outdoorwomen #cyclinglifestyle #travelbike #freedom #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solotraveller #biketouring #polignanoamare #apulia
#rowerem #onmybike #Puglia #happynewyear #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
"Natale con i suoi, Easter with whoever you want" - "Christ "Natale con i suoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" - "Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you want" says the Italian proverb, according to it, on the first day of Christmas, December 25, after 2 p.m., Italy stops. And then, the square was full of people, cafe bustle, conversations, drinks to warm up before a long afternoon at the table and then ... silence. Nobody. Christmas dinner is the main, most important point of Christmas celebrations, just like Christmas Eve in Poland. Santo Stefano day, December 26th is traditionally spent walking, sightseeing, outdoors. And now not a single car passed by me, but another cyclist did!  Fantastic weather - blue sky, sun, about 17 degrees.
Wandering around the streets, the kitchen windows are open and I can smell fried fish. Once upon a time I came to Italy for a holiday with $300 in my pocket (which I put aside all year long by giving English classes), which was supposed to last for 2 months. And it did. Sleeping under the sky as I didn't even have a tent, hitchhiking..the only food I had was bread with onions and Calve mayonnaise.  This mayonnaise was my discovery, and sweet onions too.  The main point of the day and the only luxury I allowed myself was a cup of cappuccino - before I ordered it, however, I walked around and looked at the tables of the cafes in which cups they serve them in - I wanted as big as possible.  Then I sat for an hour, tasting the remnants of milk foam with a spoon. The smell of tomato sauce coming from the open windows annoyed me because I was craving dinner so much. Today I remembered that smell from 30 years back.
 I have lunch at home, and cappuccino is also sometimes, thanks to your donations as well (I still look at the cups 🙃). And on the wall today I read the quote "Limits exist only in the soul of those who do not dream". But it was pathetic.  Let's dream, let's fulfill...
I wish you many good dinners and moments spent as you wish.  I was on a bike 😁.
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #christmasvibe
Today it's December 10th and it is a special date Today it's December 10th and it is a special date for me. On 10 Dec 2013, I locked my door, gave the key to the new tenant, packed the box with my bike into my neighbor's car and flew off on a trip with a one-way ticket. To the other side of the world, the Philippines. The decision-making process wasn't particularly long and was born after cycling Japan, but I had been preparing for this escapade for several months. Organizing my life, buying a new bike (to make it "easier" I went to Berlin twice in one week) and other equipment, buying various insurances, arranging vaccinations - each step meant a lot of time spent on choosing one option or another, finally packing life into boxes and taking it to the basement and flying to Manila with a short stay in Shanghai on the way. I chose the Philippines knowing absolutely nothing about it. There was a promotion on KLM tickets and this destination seemed to me OK. It wasn't that much OK as it turned out, but I still managed to spend there and even pedal for 7 weeks 🙂. For the first 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Sophia. 
Gees, it's been 9 years, and I can't stop! After the Philippines I flew to Burma, then cycled through Thailand, Laos, China.... I don't know if I'll go back to Southeast Asia, because I'm sweating at the thought of it, but going through my posts (quite clumsy, it's the beginnings of the blog) made me very happy. If you feel like it go to my my webpage #Ewcyna. What an excitement it was!
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #philippinesbybike #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #rowerem  #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #biketravel #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #blogipodroznicze #photooftheday
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