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Category:

Azerbaijan

    AzerbaijanAsiaSilk RoadCaucasus

    Azerbaijan. Holiday in Baku – have you also insured yourself for travelling??

    by Ewcyna 23 May 2020
    written by Ewcyna

    The course of events in Iran has gained momentum. The twists were in a direction inversely proportional to my assumptions, but that's how it is, if you travel professionally. Stories from northern Iran will be in the book. I still have hope, that I will finish it, and you will want to read it.

    Good-bye Iran!

    There was a big false start with entering Azerbaijan. Shortly before the official start of the Novrooz holidays, i.e. the feast of spring and the start of the Lord's new year, wait, Persian new year 1397 in Iran, I found myself at the border town of Astara on the Caspian Sea. I was going to evacuate myslef from Iran before the celebrations started. They last indefinitely, i.e. around two weeks, as you can see, they cannot be even equal to our Christmas in combination with New Year's Eve. Well, now as if to add the Three Kings, maybe maybe.. . In any case, the people of Persia indulge in mass travel, everything is closed, hotels full and roads crowded. Maybe it should, but somehow it didn't excite me at all. Novrooz is a spring festival, begins therefore ...? Yep, bingo, 21 of March. 17 I was in Astara on March, and the day before I applied for an Azeri visa online. I didn't rush it, because all the information previously obtained was clear, that the e-visa is granted quickly and hassle-free.

    Iranian food. Rice with burners, that everyone is fighting at the table.

    I actually, was in my mailbox the next day. With one small piece of information, which worried me a bit.

    Entry to Azerbaijan was determined not earlier than 29 of March. The description also explains, that the delay is due to the New Spring Year's celebrations, although they officially began in 4 days. Do not know, whether they closed the border and generally how it was related to travelling to Azerbaijan, but it meant it, that I had to stay in Iran for a good week and a half. I was, nearly there. Fortunately, thank God and inshallah!  – I still had an Iranian visa valid for 2 more weeks, otherwise I would be properly fucked.

    I slowly digested this information while lying in a tent in a city park with a view of the border guard tower. It rained, so I stayed there two nights and all day. I did not want to roll up the tent and I had enough food and reading and a toilet with water was nearby. It was neither dangerous nor unusual – in the same park, and on almost every free patch of grass or concrete, tents of traveling Iranians were spread here and throughout the country, so mine didn't stand out anyway, though I hid it a little bit anyway.

    in a park near the border with Azerbaijan

    The tent is inscribed in the Iranian landscape during Nowruz, he is ingrown into it, nothing special. Iranians travel and the state organizes tent villages for them, which are to support celebrating-traveling citizens. Children were running next to the tents, skewers were roasting and water bubbling for tea. It wasn't a good idea to stay there for more then a week though, So I decided ... Not, jestem wredna i nie zdradzę co było potem 😉

    tent villages during the Persian new year in Iran
    you can also. Seaside Park in Astara
    Miejsce na piknik znajdzie się wszędzie

    When I entered Azerbaijan, I left the Middle East and entered Caucasus. One stage is over, started another. Eurasia, borderline between Asia and Europe. Great curiosity. For a good few days I did not remove my headscarf from my head, although no one here requires any longer covering the hair or feminine shapes . I would add, I wore long trousers and a sleeve until the end of the trip in Istanbul. This outfit really helps with solo female travel.

    Welcome to Azerbaijan! Caspian Sea

    The road along the coast of the Caspian Sea was a balm for my senses. First of all, it is nice to cycle along water , even the lake was called the sea as in this case, secondly - suddenly there was silence. Annoying and throating motorbikes and their owners have disappeared as if with a wave of the magic wand. Like deja-vu from the Lao border- Vietnamese - with that, that it worked the other way there - from Laotian silence I fell into Vietnamese chaos. The road turned into a highway, but it went well. After five days with a break to explore mud volcanoes and petroglyphs, I was in the capital of the country.

    mud volcanoes in Gobustan
    petroglify w Gobustanie
    Hello Baku!

    Most Azerbaijani residents at least officially profess Islam, although the Russification of the country has done its hardly anyone cares about religion. alcohol? Pork? No problem.

    Cognac factory

    Baku on oil and natural gas has grown, and it shows. Apparently, it will last for many years.

    Heydar Aliyev project center Zaha Hadid
    Baker's old town

    Cool city. When you get out of the crazy center, it's very post-Soviet homely.

    More familiar on the outskirts of the city
    The meat is certainly fresh. Slaughter on site.

    How to travel is only in the clinic in Baku! I got a double room. First thought, which came to my mind once it came to me, that I will stay here some time, and . what will I eat here. I will associate the hospital with poor food in small quantities. And I am alone. No family or friends will come. I will starve, like nothing.

    In the meantime I was getting tasty, hearty meals, I could not eat bread.

    Obiadek

    But, but – what I did in the hospital? The day before my trip, my knee hurt. It somehow hurt strangely, subcutaneously, not deep. We all know, that as soon as the cyclist tugs with his knee, it is a grave, will talk all his life. But I didn't leave. I'm dropping gears, when it's too hard, I don't wrestle and when I can't ride I get off the bike and drive.

    The whole next day I was hanging around the city like crazy. The knee hurt more and more. There was a small pimple on it, but there was red erythema around her. I scratched a little. In the morning it was half-spilled and I could barely get up from bed. It stopped me from pain. Is a photo, then it was only worse.

    Phone number to the insurer. Reporting a case. I get an address to the clinic. closeby, but I can't walk, just a taxi. I can barely breathe in pain. The nice doctor says Infection, we leave you here in the hospital.

    – for how long?

    – At least 3 days

    I stayed six. To this day, I do not know where it came from this infection. But I know, you have to insure yourself when traveling, although sometimes some people say otherwise. Similarly “they never get sick”. I didn't get sick until then. Over the next two months I used the health insurance four times. The whole treatment did not cost me a penny.

    And here is a digression about travel insurance. Firstly – należy je mieć rzecz jasna. Secondly – potrzebę pomocy należy jak najprędzej zgłaszać do ubezpieczyciela, preferably before taking any action on your part. Wtedy to oni prowadzą sprawę. Best too, when the insurer will direct you to a specific institution, najczęściej wtedy idzie bezkosztowo. Of course, in case of - knock on - emergency, loss of consciousness etc.. this may not be possible, but remember this rule. Something is happening to health, doctor needed - phone number to insurer. I will give you a case number, will most likely indicate a facility, with whom he has a contract. The insurer must also agree to do one or other examination, must recognize, that they are right and performed under first aid not because we want to. I had a follow-up visit in the hospital afterwards, the cost he no longer wanted to cover, fortunately, nobody wanted money from me. I have heard of many successes in travel insurance, I also had some minor problems myself. Each case is different, but some of the problems result from the insured's failure to comply with the procedures required by the insurer. A friend of mine came to the hospital with stomach problems in one distant country on another continent, after more than a week of treatment it was not better, therefore he bought a ticket and returned to Poland, because he stated, it will be better this way. After the fact, he applied for a refund. He did not know, that in this case not only the cost of treatment, but also a ticket to Poland was on the insurer's side – gdyby to on zadecydował, ze transport jest konieczny (when the treatment is prolonged, an insurer is often more profitable to bring a delinquent to the country). As far as I know the cost of the ticket has not been refunded.

    – Please, be happy, that it happened to you in Baku. Brave cyclist on the wide road - The doctor said goodbye to me. Take care of this knee, use ointment and if something is calling!  Before she let me out, liters of antibiotics were poured into me.

    During the week on my second bed in the room, a different female patient was placed every day. Each of them came to the clinic for one day for in vitro fertilization. Most of the six women, I met, the twenty-thirty-year-olds were telling, that this is the last chance to save the marriage. The child is the basis, without children, marriage is pointless - the husband will leave, will find another one, which will give him children. It is difficult not to tie it with Islamic traditions. In those few square meters of room on the first floor of Merkazi Clinic, there was nervousness in the air, fear, despair and hope.

    Shhh ... Don't say the name. Let's say "country on A ..". Joanna warned me, a Pole, who has lived in Baku for several years, when I told her about my future plans. Armenia. This word is not pronounced in Azerbaijan. I've been living here almost 4 years and I haven't been there yet. If I went to Armenia I would be out of work the same day. Maybe I'll go when my contract ends. Now that's out of the question.

    Banner about the massacre in Chodżali – Baku

    Xojali. Monuments to the victims of the massacre in (Khojaly) are in every city. Large, expressive, photos of victims giving a blow to the head. In the village of Khojaly located in the current Nagorno-Karabakh (Arcach) - unrecognized country, the lands occupied by the Armenians as the Azerbaijani say – at the beginning of the war in 1992 years died over 600 Azerbaijani civilians. At the hands of Armenians, probably also Russians.   

    – They bring even six-year-old children to the films about the massacre. They plant hate in them since birthJoanna.

    Never before have I encountered such vividly expressed hatred between nations more than in the Caucasus. That's probably why, that the memory is still alive and the war continues.

    I cycled through Khojaly a few weeks later on the same road, where these people died.

    Eternal fire.. gas deposits are extracted from the rocks

    And now digression number two. Traveling in the Caucasus should be remembered, that the border between Armenia and Azerbaijan and Armenia and Turkey (ally of Azerbaijan) is closed. Logistically, it is extremely important, because in this small area wanting to visit the three countries of the Caucasus - Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia, the journey through Georgia or Iran remains. The war over Nagorno-Karabakh is not over. Although, I can still see this information on the first googling of the name of the country or Wikipedia on travel forums, how many people happily plan travel routes in the Caucasus assuming crossing these borders. People still amaze me, who come to some region of the world without elementary knowledge about it. Search engine is our ally. We will save ourselves logistical mishaps, and we will also show respect to the inhabitants of the region. Better yet, of course, before reading, read two articles and preferably a few books in the subject. Below is my route map in Azerbaijan – see the limits. There is no Arcach on Google maps, or Nagorno-Karabakh. Below is a map showing the current state of the countries in the Caucasus region.

    South Caucasus map geopolityka.net

    At the end of April, summer arrived for good. The green has exploded with redoubled power and the colors change in all cases: green hills, grass up to the waist, the leaves on the trees are also super-green, rapeseed is yellow, purple lilac, Red poppies, white fragrant linden and jasmine (linden and jasmine are already blooming!) and snow caps on the Caucasian peaks. 400 km from Baku to the border with Georgia via Sheki are relentless hills and laps, pushes and reunions.

    Roadside mud boots, still hot!
    Droga do Sheki. Although it does not look, the impression was good

    At dusk, as soon as I set up my tent, the nearby brushwood comes alive. Howl, nightmarish and stabbing, I do not know what is it, what animal is this, sounds bleak, ominously, awfully. Howls like damned souls. And it is very very close. You don't know this sound? You movie from Youtube, you can listen.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9p7qo4ElhA

    I had a lot of howling company in this court

    “These are jackals” says the old guardian on the farm, where I get in the evening and ask about the possibility of setting up the tent. “Do not be afraid, they are not dangerous and they will not come here.. my dogs won't let them come”. And what do they eat? I ask unconvinced and immediately google “is the jackal dangerous to humans”. And what they will find there.. Wolves.. there are a lot of wolves here, too, it shows wooded slopes. Sometimes I shoot myself” he says, drinking vodka for dinner and breakfast.

    Azerbaijan is such a Muslim country, alcohol is always in stores, milk and cheese not necessarily.

    Well, post-Soviet historical legacy.

    Linked:

    • Iran, let's bike again!
      Iran, let's bike again!
    • Wjazd do Iranu - księżycowy Keszm i sinusoida wrażeń
      Entry to Iran - lunar Keshm and sweet-bitter sensations
    • Z Sziraz do Yazd czyli irańskie miejsko-pustynne impresje
      From Shiraz to Yazd. Iranian urban-desert impressions
    • Armenia i Górski Karabach rowerem - moje miejsce na ziemi
      Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh by bike - my place on earth
    • Dzień w drodze w Omanie
      A day on the road in Oman
    • Gruzja i po płaskim? - rowerem przez step Kachetii i dolinę Alazani
      Georgia and flat? - by bike through the Kachetii steppe and…
    23 May 2020 6 comments
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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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I am not a fan of big humidity in the air. I sweat I am not a fan of big humidity in the air. I sweat a lot and on practical side the tent is wet in the morning. Sometimes it takes too long for it to get dry but then hopefully the sun will come out during the day. It's enough to find a proper spot, 10 minutes, all done! 
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#apulia #italybybike #hobolife #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #campinglife #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
While living in #valdorcia in Tuscany for a few mo While living in #valdorcia in Tuscany for a few months I've watched thousands of people visiting the same places to see the same views. The viewpoints were marked on google maps and mentioned on tourism sites. 
I didn't follow them, but this one close to #montepulciano I just came across. So why not to do a selfie there? 
Luckily being a #cyclist I wander around and see same beautiful, yet not full of people places.
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#italybybike #toskania #toscana #tuscanygram #italiainbici #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelbiker #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Tuscany in the rain looks same gorgeous, but what Tuscany in the rain looks same gorgeous, but what if you are heading right on this direction?
That weekend I was chased by many #thunderstorms
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#italybybike #hobolife #valdorcia #italiainbici #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #rain
The Padan lowland is probably the least attractive The Padan lowland is probably the least attractive part of Italy for cyclists.  Pros - it's flat and there are many beautiful cities and towns - like Modena, Ferrara, Padua, Ravenna and dozens of smaller ones.  Cons - because it is flat :) - and as we know, mountains, hills and some water do the job in the landscape.  Although the latter is in abundance here, it is not one of the most picturesque.
I've been here before so I wasn't going to spend any time cycling now. Having less than 3 days to get to the bus that was supposed to take me with my bike from Padua to the north, to the Czech Republic, I decided to spend two days in the Apennines - in the mountains 35 degrees heat is more tolerable.  Because for me the heat in this part of the world is unbearable.  This year it came too early, already in May - the grass on the Tuscan slopes is not green anymore, but yellow.  This is one of the reasons why I am coming north.  Turn off this oven !!! The obligatory for me 2-3-4 hour siesta in the shade does not help much when the air is still.  I also didn't see other beautiful cities like Florence, because it's even hotter there, and besides, the start of holidays in Italy (yes, that's it) and the long weekend (Republic Day on June 2) did their job - the crowds went on tour and you have to go  was somewhere to hide from them. 
Due to yet another train strike in Italy I had to postpone my departure, but this way I cycled and actually enjoyed it - the part of river Po lowland and visited some new places like Ferrara.
Today it's cloudy in Padua and it's about to start raining.  Italy is crying that I'm leaving after half a year.. What do I say?  I am happy and sad at the same time.  Anyway- until we meet again, See you soon!
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 #italybybike #hobolife #padova #italiainbici #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventures
Puglia is not just about the sea and the coast. It Puglia is not just about the sea and the coast. Its carst hills are full of #caves. You can still find those that were inhabited for centuries, not just houses but churches with paintings etc. 
#Matera is a town already in #Basilicata region but right on the border with Puglia, hence visited once there. A #UNESCO heritage as its inhabitants used to live in the cave houses. I was told one of Bond films was done here, but I don't watch Bonds.. The view from the canyon is spectacular but it was do windy I could hardly hold myself and the camera!
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#italybybike #hobolife #puglia #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelbike #freedom #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Yesterday I took a trip through the Val d'Orcia. I Yesterday I took a trip through the Val d'Orcia. I've been living on its outskirts here in central #Tuscany in #Italy for several months but still have a lot to see or visit again.  I was also waiting for longer and warmer days, because those uphills are challenging! 
Val d'Orcia is an extraordinary area. Like a huge postcard.  So picturesque and characteristic that the valley has even received UNESCO heritage status. Why? "Val d’Orcia is an exceptional reflection of the way the landscape was re-written in Renaissance times to reflect the ideals of good governance and to create an aesthetically pleasing picture. The Val d’Orcia distinctive landscape comprises a network of farms, villages and towns reflecting the Renaissance agricultural prosperity, the mercantile wealth of Sienna, the need for defence, and a utopian aesthetic. The working landscape of fields, farms, trees, and woodlands, is interspersed with low, conical hills on the summits of which are situated towns and villages.."
I have planned a climb towards Pienza for the afternoon- to ride with the sun, the hills grow in beauty with every shadow on them.
 - the way of the Gladiator?  After all, there are beautiful roads everywhere!  I replied to one of the threads on FB, seeing someone posting photos of the same shot of the cypress-lined road again.
But in fact, the "Gladiator's Way", which is the place, where the scene from the movie Gladiator (which I have not even seen) was filmed, is one of the most beautiful.  It is also very Instagrammable and people wanting to see it are plenty (the road is blocked fortunately for cars, you can go on foot) but I didn't meet anyone.  I was busy pushing my bike up the steep mountain where Pienza is nestled.  Ufff! Only when I turned my head I saw this zigzaging path dotted with cypruses with Monte Amiata in the background. 
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 #italybybike #valdorcia #unesco #gladiatorway #hobolife # #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling # solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike # Polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeonther #lifeontheroadisfikewree
Puglia is a kingdom of baroque architecture. Facad Puglia is a kingdom of baroque architecture. Facades, interiors, palaces, houses, statues in every single town so rich in ornaments. The more inland you go the more authentic and interesting the towns are. Made of "pietra Leccese" - the yellowish stone from Lecce area is its characteristic. Do different from the north. 
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#apulia #italybybike #galatina #salento #puglia #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike
Looks like Instagram is not much updated. It's bee Looks like Instagram is not much updated. It's been 3 weeks nearly I've been touring around Puglia region, the end of the Italian pennisula "heel". Was here in the winter and came back to see more.  Truly, I'm in awe. 
Even though it last week the wind blew mercilessly, it rained heavily pretty often the predominating colours are blue, emerald and yellowish white of the stone used to construct the houses and multuple churches in baroque style. It was here in #Salento, where I found the most beautiful beaches in Italy. To enjoy peaceful roads I just went inland - there are hundreds of quiet roads among the olive groves to explore.
Let me just enjoy peacefully the last few days before returning north. The summer finally arrived and had a first swim this season! 
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#apulia #italybybike #hobolife #puglia #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
“Eroica is the cycling manifesto of the past. T “Eroica is the cycling manifesto of the past.  The race takes place every year at the beginning of October, mainly on dirt roads, the so-called Strade Bianche (white roads) in the Chianti and Crete Senesi (Sienese Clays) areas in Tuscany region, Italy. You can only take part in the race on a vintage bike .. ”here's what you can read when searching the internet for" Eroica "+ bicycle. Although my bike is 8.5 years old and it cannot be called historic, but the fact that I have been living two kilometers from the Eroica route for almost 3 months is obliging.  I have already covered a lot of white roads, but this one is unique.  I went out to explore. 
 I will take shortcuts, I decided, looking at the dotted lines of side roads winding through the hills.  And "thanks" to this, soon after that, the wheels of the bicycle and the soles of the shoes were covered with rusty slime.  The beauty of Crete Senesi is indisputable, but those jagged and cracked hills called "calanche", where motorbikes raged on such beautiful days as today and at viewpoints there were queues for the next Instagram photo - it's nothing but clay and the last two days it was raining  a lot of…
 Strade bianche is white gravel.  I know Poland, routes of Lithuania and Latvia.  I do not like these roads - it is steep, it is easy to break down, and when a car passes, you are covered with white dust.  Multiply by the number of cars - there are a lot of them on weekends.  But their charm lies in the surrounding hills.  Up - down, up - down… it's hard, but gosh - it's phenomenal! There is also a race called Nova Eroica, you can take part in it on any other bike.  Interested in vintage atmosphere or an ordinary one? Google it, sign up and arrive in the vicinity of Siena on the first weekend of October.  Or come just like that for a ride or - to push the bike;) Anytime!
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#eroica #italiainfotografia #stradebianche #cretesenesi #valdorcia #italybybike #bici #toscanadascoprire #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike #bybicycle #toscanagram
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