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lonely journey by bicycle

    practically

    This is a men’s world... should a woman travelling solo be scared?

    by Ewcyna 23 October 2016
    written by Ewcyna

    p1140232

    Some time ago a post “Do you like sex ..? written by Lydia, solo female bicycle traveler from the Netherlands raised vivid discussions on facebook bike touring group. Lydia described both previous and contemporary cases, mainly during her travels by bicycle, when she was sexually harassed by men – it could be just by somebody using “innocent” word,, but she went through fortunately unsuccessful attempt of rape. Most men reading the post seemed not to realize the fact that such things take place. Yes, they do, since even when you are on a bike, nothing changes – men are still men and women are women. Obvious obviousness. I promised myself then to describe my stories of this kind from my life on the road. I was lucky they were not that drastic (until 2018), but let’s calll definitely uncomfortable.

    Update 2018. IRAN – this is where the worst happened – sexual assaults, 2 rape attempts – including very serious one that finished in court and way too much unhealthy interest of men. I wrote about it in detail and gathered other solo cycling women testimonials in my blog post here.

    JAPAN. It is early sunday morning in Hiroshima – quiet, calm, no passers-by – the streets are extinct as if it was not Japan. This time I’m without a bicycle, I go sightseeing so just want to catch the tram. I’m at a tram stop looking at the timetable and try to find out when the tram arrives. A kind passer-by walks close and as I understand he wants to help me. He stares at the plate just like me for a while and then .. I grabs my butt, the front as well and soon after that runs down the street. I do not know whether the more it pisses me off, or makes me laugh .. “hope this two seconds made you happy man” the thought runs through my head, but I don’t feel well at all.

    THAILAND. I am pedaling at my own pace when a boy overtakes me on a scooter. “Hello!” he greets me so I reply “hellos” as well. I hear greetings many times during the day, especially here, in central part of the country where people are generally very friendly towards rarely seen here foreigners. The boy, however, returns. When I stop, he something says something to me in Thai, pointing to a forest nearby. I wrinkle my forehead, but I don’t want to understand… It seems incomprehensible to me – this child does not even have his first mustache and has the audacity to submit me sex proposals. Me, that as a simple glimpse could be his mother. When he touches my breast I have no doubt I shout at him showing that I just call the police immediately. I see just a smoke of his quickly disappearing scooter.

    Vietnam. At that time I have two companions but we lose each oher somehow passing through the town. I’m standing on the roadside somewhere in the shade and wait until they arrive. Young Vietnamese riding a scooter also stops there. So what, he stopped. Well, but he is saying something to me, then he shows some money. Well, I am not mistaken, he is offering money for sex. I send him to hell as well in Polish and quickly see his scooter disapperaing. When I tell my companion about this incident he is most interested in what color was the bill I was offered. “You were not curious, how much you was valued?” I hear. Well, how nice.

    CAMBODIA. I cycle through the village, I stop here and there, I eat, shop then I go on cycling for several kilometers but I feel that in a thousand scooters every now and then I see the same one. Well, but I am not wrong, when the road gets empty, village ends and houses disappear I see this scooter standing on the side of the road and a man a little hidden in the bushes masturbating. Well, it is not funny.

    GREECE. Small town again, as I am shopping, I see passing by old man. He barely moves on walking slowly. After some time I sit down on the square using free wifi there when I see the same man approaching me. He walks slowly, heavily leaning on a cane. When it gets close to me he is curiously watching and says something. I do not know Greek, so in such moments I try to just be nice – a smile on my face and a gesture of helplessness – I do not understand what you’re saying to me, unfortunately! The man touches my hair. Well, here blonde is rather unusual color – in Asia it also happened to me that black haired people wanted to touch fair hair. But wait a minute! The guy is trying to get my head to his lips while pulling my hand to his trousers button fly. No man, y9ou must be joking! I push the old man, because I do not want to treat him nicely any more and I cycle on pretty mad.

    SERBIA. It is pretty cold, foggy evening in November so I do not want sleep in a tent and look for a shelter. I find the only gueshouse in this tiny village, talk to the owner about the price as he shows me the room. 15 Euro he says. Could it be 10? I ask innocently as 15 is actually a bit too much for me. Then he takes me and says – if we make love a little it wil lbe less. Oh well, really? My body is worth this 5 Euro discount? I push him away and require another room at different part of the building. I still think whether to stay but really the cold night is not friendly. I stay and lock my room tight.

    And finally – POLAND! A few years ago, when I was still afraid to sleep in the wild. I’m in the mountains looking for accommodation – I see a rural gueshouse, perfect place then. Can I put my tent here? I ask. Of course, no problem, there is a good place behind the house, grass trimmed, feel free. Nice place, pleasant atmosphere, there are some guests and prepare the barbecue. Safe, right? I fall asleep, but in the middle of the night a sudden noise wakes me up. A few men – four or five stand around the tent, shining their flashlights onto it .. and pretend to be bears. They are drunk so they roar, howl, talk nonsense and throw hints at me. Definitely they have fun, and I lie rigid with fear hearing only my heart pounding through my head and go through the worst scenarios. Alcohol changes people, I do not know what can come to their minds. I do not know how long it lasts, but when they finally go reeling with laughter, I grab my backpack with documents, jacket and run into the woods. I’m sitting there for two hours or so shaking do not from what more – fear or cold. Then I decide to go back to my tent but do not fall asleep. As soon as dawn rises I leave. My only regret is that I did not go to say “thank you” to the host.

    These are just a few examples.

    I do not want to get misunderstood. It is not that I feel permanent danger while travelling solo thinking that every man I encounter wants to try my femininity – on the contrary, I always say that a woman traveling alone inspires others to look after her and to help – this is what I experienced dozens of times.

    Maybe someone can tell – your stories don’t convince me, nothing happened really. Fortunately, nothing bad happened, but I was not laughing. I felt fear, resentment, anger. I’m a woman traveling solo because I like to travel like this and do not want to be afraid. This, even innocent-looking situations should not take place.

    Therefore – should a woman traveling alone be afraid of? My answer is, on the contrary to the prevailing positive opinions – sometimes yes, she has reasons to feel so. She should never forget that she is a woman and this little fact changes a lot. I have a few safety rules which I follow, I described them in the “Exploring the world – tips for solo cycling women” blog entry and I believe that obeying them helps me to go safe.

    Safe journeys to all!

    23 October 2016 12 comments
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  • AsiaSilk RoadUzbekistan

    Uzbekistan, oh, these colors!

    by Ewcyna 4 February 2018
    by Ewcyna 4 February 2018

    Uzbekistan, oh, these colors! He admired the colors of the women's costumes Elisabeth, sakwiarka from South Africa, I met on tour in Kyrgyzstan. In October, yes, This would be the best time for this country. My w…

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  • EuropePoland

    By bike through Western Pomerania – The route of the Western Lake District (Zlocieniec – Siekierki)

    by Ewcyna 13 September 2020
    by Ewcyna 13 September 2020

    In Złocieniec, whose romantic name now harmonizes with the colors of the surrounding hills, the Old Railway Route, I got here from Kołobrzeg intersects with another one, assumed to be the longest bicycle route in Western Pomerania -…

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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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SHOWS/ SLIDES September/October 2023 (E SHOWS/ SLIDES September/October 2023
(Eng. Invitation to the upcoming presentations in Poland from my Silk Road bike journey) 

Dear! In the coming weeks I will again have the opportunity to share stories from my journey along the Silk Road from China to Turkey. Several shows are planned in Silesia, in Gdynia and Warsaw.  Some are paid, others are free admission.
I cordially invite everyone, not only bicycle twisted.

7.09 (Thursday) godz. 16.30  Skoczow (province. Silesian), Electric Theatre, ul. Mickiewicz 3 
 (bilety 15 PLN)

11.09 (Monday) godz. 19.00 Katowice, NAMASTE Travelers Club,  ul. Jan Sobieski 27
(bilety 15 PLN)

ticket(wtoPLN ) godz. 18.00 Oswiecim, Oświęcim Cultural Center ul. Śniadecki 24 
(wstęp wolny)

15.09 (piątek) godz. 16.30 Gdynia, Gdynia Travel Workshops, Pomeranian Science and Technology Park (wstęp wFree entranceer - Warsaw: 
3.10 godz. 18.00 (wtorek) DK Kadr, ul. ofTuesday32 
6.10 godz. 19.00 (piąthek) DK Lowicka,Fridayahours.
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#Jedwabnyszlak #District lecture #namaste #Traveler #Festival Podrowanici #Pokaz #meeting Patrodist #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #podrozerower #podrozerower #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopod #bicycles
Brittany is a little different France. No vineyard Brittany is a little different France. No vineyards here, but loads of castles, grazing cows and sheep, mostly rocky coast and wind. Pray so it blows at your back! 
I have planned for years and finally got there this summer. Lots to explore left there still though! 
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#solotravel #cyclingnomad #cyclinglifestyle #francevelotourisme #francebybike #cyclingfrance #velonomad #cicloviaggiatori #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #inbici #travelbike #outdoor #podrozerowerem #outsideisfree #bretagne #wyprawarowerowa #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapod roses #onmybike # cycling through the world #cicloturismo #polskiblogspodróżcze #lifeontheroad
The Lavaux vineyard area stretches between Lausann The Lavaux vineyard area stretches between Lausanne and Vevey on a terraced, steep northern slope of Lake Geneva overlooking the peaks of the Alps.  A beautiful lake and even rows of lush green vines always create a beautiful sight, but I was wondering why is it a UNESCO site?
 "Oh, just millionaires started buying up the land and building houses there, that was the only way to protect the place," explained Anna, a solo cyclist friend who lives nearby and whom I finally met after years of Facebook virtual acquaintance.
I left Geneva looking at the sky with justified concern, because the last days here there was a storm after storm.  Fortunately, during the ride along the lake, it cleared up and we could soak up the beautiful views.  Just like on Lake Garda, the views here are luxurious.  I passed the spas of Thonon les Bains and Evian - the latter is known for its bottled water brand.  Here I could drink it at the source for free, apparently it does well. It was also time for the last bath.  It is difficult to provide any comment to the curr, in the evening I found myself on the Riviera, because that's what they call the shore between Montreaux, Vevey and Lausanne.  The density of people and buildings plus the most crowded week of the year and the long Swiss weekend did not bode well for accommodation, and that's exactly what happened.  There was one big disco on the coast and at the campsites, apart from the disco, were packed.  Like it or not, with no chance of wild camping - scared of being fined too - I went back 12 km to one of the earlier campsites. It was packed, but I didn't care as I put my tent up at midnight.
The decision to skip cycling through southern Switzerland and the higher mountains was not easy, oh no.  I returned to it several times, but the weather madness was the reason.  So if you are looking for a flatter Switzerland, I recommend the trail along the lakes and rivers, i.e. the northern part of the country. 
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#solotravel #cyclingnomad #switzerlandbybike #cyclingswitzerland #outdoorwomen #lacleman #lavaux #swizerlandtourism #cyclinglife #travelblog #inbici #travelbike #outdoor #podrozerowerem #outsideisfree #wyprawarowerowa #solowomancycling #solopodróż #switzerland
Neglectig Instagram continued.. this photo is a fe Neglectig Instagram continued.. this photo is a few weeks old, but well.. do many wonderful places visited the last months mostly due to #housesitting that it's hard to remember. After Lago di Garda I enjoyed Piemonte and Val d'Aosta and having a few weeks before another assignment I decided to go to north of France. Started with a nice bicycle path along La Seine river. Idyllic landscape, multiple castles with the impressive medieval fortress of Château-Gaillard overlooking the meanders of the Seine, flanked by limestone cliffs.. cycling in France can get as easy and enjoyable as that .. Pushing my bicycle through the chinese Tian Shan feels like an old, unbelievable story here
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#cyclingfrance #hobolife #womenonbikes #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #francebybike #seineriver
- What are you doing here, are you traveling alone - What are you doing here, are you traveling alone?  asked Marco in front of Lidl seeing me packing my groceries. It's still the cheapest market in Italy and sometimes I buy there, although the amount of packaging plastic they use makes me sick. And it was in this market in Peschiera del Garda that I heard the biggest mix of languages for weeks, which made me even more surprised that anyone paid attention to me at all.
 - Do you want to sleep wild?  There are places by the lake, but not here. You can stay at my place if you like, but it's 15 km away - he added. 
Not this time, I was going the other way. 
When at the end of my stay in Tuscany I received a housesitting offer by Lake Garda, I thought to myself - why not?  I was here only once by bike. I've also decided to cancel housesitting gigs in Spain for other reasons.
The lake area is kind of luxurious, a nice change.
This is the largest lake in Italy, an extremely picturesque place.  As befits its post-glacial origin, it is long, the circumference is 160 km and in the northern section it bites into high mountains. Turquoise water, green trimmed lawns and high mountains on the horizon.Very touristy, but it's enough to cycle 5 km from the coast you embrace rolling hills, vineyards, crops and it's very normal and still beautiful.
But nature is not doing so well. Water level in Lake Garda is at its lowest in decades. In the face of the worst flooding in the Po Valley in over years, it's like a paradox. The lakes aren't just views but large bodies of water used in agriculture and power plants. The German press warned their readers,thousands of whom come here on holiday: "Lake Garda is so low that diving is dangerous."
Ps. If you want to support my travel you are welcome. Link in bio. 
Ps.2 I still am more often on FB
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I don't like numbers and don't count on them in th I don't like numbers and don't count on them in the summary of my trip around Sardinia.  I don't know how much I pedaled, what is the sum of elevation gains and stuff.  But wait, I know something! - I spent 16 days there and saw only part of the island. 
This place immediately won my heart, although I would rather avoid it during the season.  The beaches are insane, but it was too cold to swim. And too windy, although if you're lucky the wind blows in your favour. And maybe the prices, it's more expensive than on land.  Hills and mountains nearly everywhere.
Adventages? Nature, vast space, people, traces of indigenous people who once inhabited the island.  Mysterious Nuraghi Towers.  The enormity of traditions that are cultivated for the Sardinians, not for tourists. 
But let's finish describing my tour. I reached the town of Bosa, probably the most charming Sardinian town, where colorful houses are located on the mountainside and there is a castle on top of it. I haven't discovered whether it's a custom or whether painting houses is for tourists, but the fact is that in many Sardinian cities houses have facades in vivid colors and so is Bosa. I walked around the streets of Bosa a bit, ate ice cream and started rolling a few hundred meters up. Instead of the main road, I chose a smaller, more winding and with a greater dose of climbing, which usually provides more attractions and scenic impressions.  You wander through small villages where people say hello and ask where you are from.  Thanks to this, I came across two local celebrations on Sunday, which are related to religion, and on Monday the third one.  Phew!  The most interesting were tractors in floral styling, which later took part in the procession.
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The winds will blow as they want my mother used to The winds will blow as they want my mother used to say - and in Sardinia the winds usually blow counter-clockwise.  When I reached Olbia on the east coast of Sardinia, I should have started cycling west. However, I was too keen to see the feast of Saint Efisio in Cagliari in the south of the island, so I decided to go there by train and disturbed this windy order. I got off the station before the city to find a quiet corner behind a bush for the night.  From there I went to Cagliari.
I saw the amazing fiesta and crawled out of town slowly.  Islands are islands, you can always count on wind blowing there.  And it blew right in my face.  I did 20km that afternoon and didn't enjoy it at all.
 I had an ambitious plan to conquer the interior and the east of the island, which is famous for its beauty, and it was.  Huge spaces, greenery, grazing cattle... we like it that way.  Extremely steep climbs and my bike loaded after the winter did their job - two days of struggling with them reduced my urges to push east, which is considered the most beautiful part of the island.  Willingly or not, after seeing the UNESCO site which are the ruins of the Bronze Age village in Barumini, the people of Sardinia called the Nuraghias, I climbed even higher and then went back to the sea to Oristano and packed the train back to Olbia.  Just to go with the wind along the coast. I wanted to see some of this emerald sea.  So I did, cycling the Costa Smeralda. The sun was shining beautifully, I didn't feel like taking a bath or staying in the sun. It's still too cold.  But the views alone are enough for me.
Nature are Number One in Sardinia.  The architecture was unobtrusive, not to say ugly.  Surprise. After seeing the gems of Tuscany and Puglia, this was a bit of a disappointment.  But, there are beautiful murals everywhere!
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On my last, or penultimate, weekend in Tuscany thi On my last, or penultimate, weekend in Tuscany this spring, I was to wind my way through the roads of the Chianti hills. Yes, that's where the ones famous of wine-making (in the store ask for "kianti", not "cianti") and the place of the beginning of the l'Eroica bike race. I was there 10 years ago, and all in all, the hills around me are plentiful, but just to refresh my memory, stretch my calves and catch the first sun? I don't live too close, the cats had company over the weekend so I thought - well, how about a two-day trip? 
I didn't want to pack all the lodging equipment for one night, but two accommodation search engines had bad news, however - in an area of 150 km x 100 km for the night from Saturday to Sunday there was not a single vacant accommodation! Mount Amiata. On the second one the cheapest offers for more than 200 EUR.  The long Italian weekend has begun (April 25, Italy celebrates "Festa della Librazione" - Liberation Day). On top of that, the region is mega-touristy, and there is no camping apart from Siena. Let’s pack uwellell. 
Set off slowly like a tortoise ... past Asciano I entered, in the sense of pushed, on the famous white gravel roads, along which the route of the Eroica race leads and then even more slowlier!  I was occasionally passed by cyclists travelling light and on E-bikes, because that's the only way they cycle here. Envious. Eroica roads are for eagles or I need to revise my physical capabilities. I don't know what killed me more, the steepness of the roads or the number of motorcyclists on their roaring machines, but by the evening I decided that I've had and seen enough, I'm going back. And those dozen kilometers of return home in the dark - because nearly no vehicles anymore, listening to the sounds of the night, were perhaps as beautiful as the Tuscan and Sienese landscapes in spring.
And in a few days, a new cycling stage.
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#italiainbici #italybybike #cyclingitaly #travelbike #eroica #asciano #outsideisfree #cicloviaggiatori #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #inbici #cretesenesi #toscanainbici #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #roweremcross
"Christmas with yours, Easter with whoever you want", "Christm "Christmas with yours, Easter with whoever you want", "Christmas with the family, Easter with whoever you want" - according to this saying, Easter in Italy is often spent away from home, with family or friends.  The beginning of the picnic season, one might say, the welcome of spring.  Children are given chocolate eggs.  Accommodation places are booked long before Christmas.  Although you can't generalize - in many homes everything from A to Z is cooked.
The Easter traditions hold strong in the south of the country, in Sicily and even in Puglia, but although I was hoping to participate, unfortunately I was not able to be there at that time again.  The processions that take place on Good Friday, are very solemn and gather hundreds of participants.  I really like to peek at local customs, but in Tuscany there is not much to see 🙃, unless watching hundreds of visitors would count as such.  It's interesting that when I searched (in three languages) for "Easter in Tuscany", I mainly see offers of accommodation and trips.  When I searched for "Easter in Puglia", the search engine shows mainly religious rites and local traditions.

This year spring is late, the trees are blooming, but the leaves are still on hold. Three days ago we had frost at night, it's supposed to rain during Easter. In fact, it's just about to start.  Yes, I've seen what's going on with the weather in Poland, I'm not complaining! 

So I jumped on my bike before this rain for a pre-Easter bike ride to Trequanda. I haven't been there yet this year.  This is another insanely picturesque road with a view of Monte Amiata and Crete Senesi.
 I enclose a handful of photos to whet your appetite for Tuscany and wish you a good Easter time.  Rest and live it as you like.
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#italiainbici #italybybike #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #inbici #valdichiana #trequanda #tuscany #cretesenesi#toscanainbici #travelbike #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #by bike #monteamiata #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #bike trip #by bike through the world # polishtravel blogs #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling
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Ewcyna
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  • IN PRACTICE
    • Countries
      • Cycling Japan in practice
      • USA
      • Burma (Myanmar)
    • Asia by bike - practical info
    • A must-have or what is useful to me when traveling?
    • This is a men’s world... should a woman travelling solo be scared?
    • Winter bike clothing - what works for me the best?
    • Sandals for cycling - Teva, Keen, Source, Shimano.. which ones to choose?
    • Equipment and accessories when traveling by bike - what is useful for me?
    • Transporting a bicycle by plane - as I understand it? My experiences
    • Bike in the world - a guide for women
  • Journeys
  • COOPERATION
  • EVENTS
  • MEDIA
 

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