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Bałkany rowerem

    CroatiaMontenegroCzarnogóra/ Kosovo/ Macedonia/ Bułgaria

    Keep calm, it's just Yugo

    by Ewcyna 28 November 2015
    written by Ewcyna

    The road from the Adriatic to Sarajevo climbs sometimes less , sometimes more, but steadily for over 100 km. It leads along the river Neretva, and its clear water with a greenish colour sometimes stretches between the white rocks forming the canyon paving his way, sometimes widely spreads, but the landscape invariably delights. These beautiful views are certainly a touch of consolation for peening pedal cyclist.

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    But, that this time I did not need any consolation – I was cycling just in the opposite direction :)!

    In the evening just before approcaching the sea in Croatia, the road began to climb and I still could not find a place to stay. Egyptian darkness around, path lit only with lights from the cars passing by from time to time, but I was pushing further and higher - no, no other solution. After some time, the stomach began to demand fuel therefore stood at some bay biting bread with pate. It did not take long – before I have seen cars in the dark that showed up and parked near me, one, two ,three of them. Probably no one paid attention to me, but I decided to roll. Passing next to them saw the light of red candles. A lot of red candles illuminated the hillside and people lit their more. These candles saw the next day in many places, They lined the streets of Dubrovnik, and the square in a small village at the monument "To the victims of aggression Serbian - Montenegro invasion in the years 1991 - 1995 " formed an inscription - VUKOVAR. Vukovar is a town in northern Croatia, where during the last war took place mainly massacre of Croatian civilians, and now it is just sad this anniversary of these events. In these lands no nation, that would not have suffered losses and who would not have celebrated many sad anniversaries.

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    Before, even in Bosnia and Herzegovina, a country which has suffered most in this conflict I see the devastation. I can not look more at abandoned, demolished, burnt houses, to which no one returns, sometimes whole villages that nobody rebuilds. Once even in such an environment night approached and this time I felt uncomfortable putting my tent. Heart hurts so much, I do not want even pull the camera, I do it maybe once or twice. An even greater contrast I see in a larger city which is Mostar. The banks of the river flowing through the city Neretva in Mostar for many centuries combined beautiful, high, white stone bridge. On one side of the river Muslims live, on the other Catholics. During the fighting in the 90's bridge was blown up, a few years ago, with assistance from UNESCO bridge rebuilt, However, just around the corner in his neighborhood as in the whole town demolished buildings scare your eyes 20 years riddled by bullets fired facades and interiors. And in all this, here and there were built modern luxury hotels, not completely congruent to what you see around . Somewhere on the side painted on the stone inscription "DO NOT FORGET" asks - "Do not forget".

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    A reach Ivanka's home in Dubrovnik on the southern strip of Croatia several hours before the storm. That's why I did not give myself more time in other places - wishing to take advantage of the beautiful autumn aura pushed further trying at all costs to get to the Adriatic, Although the places to see in the region a plethora of invitations and also.

    People, and you know what – I did it! It closes a certain stage of my trip. Offer roadside stalls and orchards caused a smile on my face. How also mentions Wikipedia “Climate vegetation Mediterranean is formed by. olive trees, Citrus, eukaliptuses, Cypress, pistachios and vine trees” Everything is correct! I would add, that the landscape is dominated by the Adriatic Sea and white stone houses with red tiles.

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    Ivanka, friend of friend, that takes me at home and is like mother to me for three days I stay there, seeing my dismay, in response to the strength of the wind commented shortly "Jugo, I told you. When it blows, You can not make any decisions. Headache and nothing works. You have to wait, the rain comes after. After a few days it will be better".

    So I waited three days barely going out of bed, Since arriving to Dubrovnik was such an effort (Eh, all these ups and downs). When the wind a bit ceases, I am strolling through Dubrovnik. Shining, like polished pavements, homes, palaces, churches with white stone surrounded by high walls of the fortress. This city is like a fairy tale. The walls surrounding the old city I remember well from previous visit – at the entrance I quarreled with my ex-boyfriend to that extent, that each of us went dirfferent direction – We met, therefore, while going from opposite directions in the middle of the route and then it was ok. .

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    When it gets the weather window I pack and leave, Entering Montenegro. The joy of pedaling, however, lasts just two days-when entering Montenegro-a tiny, the charming country, that bicycle I visit again I have no doubt, that it is impossible to go further. Jugo, the perpetrator of all this confusion, wind from North Africa, that changes in this part of Europe in a storm to end the rain again makes itself felt. My tent the day before bravely holding up, but I have a doubt, If I could make it to put it back. The previous day after unsuccessfully searching for a room in a closed seaside village I put my tent in a trees by seashore, some 100 metres from the street, as usual, so, nobody could see it. Slept through night safely, but the wind was raging at night does not set on the day of. Si I decided to stay, but in the evening I go to fetch water and something to eat. When I get there is still a bit bright, but this time I do not wait until all cars pass by as I ususally do, so nobody sees me (which is one of my main rules) and I make a turn where is my tent. I was still moving around for a while, and .. I can see somebody, man obviously , that is close to me and looks at. Gosh, It is not good. There is no doubt, he is moving around – passed between the bike and tent and again stood, did a few steps and again turns and looks. Finally went. I already know, in spite of the rain and need to get a night cutting collapse and I'm cursing myself for my stupidity. The batteries in the lantern went off, was complete darkness, sometimes just light from cars passing, near any light. Packed in throwing a lot of stuff in the bags look with tent and this time close to me is on the disabled car lights and these guy again, there is. Seriously, I do not know why would he stand there, there was another place to stop car nearby 100 m further and it was leading with a grading a stone path. Now I'm shaking with fear. I grab two bags go in the street without seeing even the path of praying, to the cars come. I'm starting to wave riding vehicles, wondering how do I go back after the rest of the bike in the dark forest. Maybe call the police, I think.

    After some time I see with great relief, the car drives away, and I run after the rest of the luggage, grab my tent, bicycle, and I cycle on despite the darkness and the weather thanking God and Angels for help. I decided to break up the more people, while I ma not fond of asking in general.

    Travel off-season has its pros positive and negative pros. fairly obvious - the lack of crowds of tourists, Queues, prices fall, on the road it is much quieter. There are also "pluses" negative.

    I miss the most .. day!. I miss a few hours of light, and even two-three. Before I start in the morning between 9-10 this morning already about 16 that it's getting dark and you need to look for a place to sleep. But - is also continued logistical kinks. Well, because in a situation, that already somewhere will snap , What time is it 17ta, in a fit of 18th and sleep as much as I do not want. I also have such a rule, that is how I sleep in the wild is light I don't swich on light at all, that is – what to do? I reflect, of course, until my head hurts, but as a bookworm usually I took still-book reader Kindle and tried to read while covering a sleeping bag, but .. unfortunately, to my despair I damaged the screen and nearly a month of war with the theme. It is no longer under warranty, fix in those countries where I can not be, buy another practice or not - do not even know what it. I already have a plan, but smuteczek not hide is large. Kindle - back!

    I miss the evening lying in an open tent (Although then I wonder how the ehell spiders get in). Listening to the cicadas. I look at the blue-green sea water and regret, I can not jump to it. I pass the coastal towns, where everything is closed on all drains, sometimes it's hard to find a store. And so on.

    But it would be a sin to complain. Night, during which spending the night in a tent took off my socks because I was too hot and did not have to cover as yet further (in addition to burying the feather sleeping bag) bicycle bag and jacket can be regarded as a breakthrough. But if someone thinks, that my cheeks warm breeze caresses it sadly mistaken coarsely. Heat long time has passed, the wind is quite sharp and cool, but the nights are much warmer.

    Ewa, pedal faster, Come for Christmas, will borsch soup, dumplings, cheesecake, instead of carp fish I prepare octopus ha ha!- Iwona, living for years in Athens fellow schoolmate, I find on facebook which sends me an invitation. Iwonka, Thank you so much, very willingly because for two years I had no holidays and this is a special time. I have therefore next "deadline" - to Athens for the holidays. In the end, I have pledged to make dumplings and bake cheesecake, No excuse, have to come!

    Let's just this Jugo go away.

    28 November 2015 8 comments
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  • BosniaEuropeSerbia

    Balkans - hospitality, history and a sip of rakiya

    by Ewcyna 13 November 2015
    by Ewcyna 13 November 2015

    Unfortunately I can not accompany you today, I'll be doing all day rakija said Vesna, which I took in my house in Novi Sad in Serbia (adding, I can stay with her as I want).…

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  • Czarnogóra/ Kosovo/ Macedonia/ Bułgaria

    Balkans from sea to sea

    by Ewcyna 1 August 2010
    by Ewcyna 1 August 2010

    On the way over a 3-week trip with a group of friends from Dubrovnik on the Adriatic Sea in Croatia by Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia and Bulgaria – the Black Sea coast. MAP

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Ewa Świderska Ewcyna
Photo. Mateusz Skwarczek / Agencja Gazeta

Welcome to my blog! This is a website about solo cycling the world as a female and life on the road. I get to know and describe the world, others and myself too.. A little more about me you can find here. If you want me to follow my journey - - you are more then welcome!

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Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Happy Novrooz my Iranian friends! Happy new year. Hope it'll bring you health and happiness. 
It's been 5 years! Still on my mind 
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #cyclingwomen #cyclingiran #adventurecycling #silkroad #novruzbayramı #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #persia #esfahan #roweremprzeświat #wolność #polskieblogipodróżcze #solotraveller #biketouring # #shetravels
To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and To do some shopping, I need to talk seriously and reach an agreement with myself - to go or not to go, where to?  From my Tuscan solitude, 30 km both ways may not impress, but 800 meters of climbing yes. On Saturdays one can choose between Buonconvento or Asciano, because both have vegetable markets and although they are no match for the Polish or Apulian ones, they are also twice as expensive as the latter as well, but at least they exist.  And since I eat vegetables like a rabbit and say no to plastic wrapping in supermarkets I had to go.  This time I didn't even need that much but since the weather was great, I decided that maybe I'll go to Asciano to see if the medieval walls haven't collapsed yet.  I report that they are standing still, the town on the ancient route of Via Laurentina is doing well and there were even quite a few tourists who exposed their faces to the sun over a cup of espresso or other prosecco.  The cycling season has also started, although mainly e-bikes and road bikes rule, there are plenty of cyclists, and in April and May it will be the apogee.  I mumbled in the bakery about the lack of good bread though, I've already told you that in Tuscany it is baked from white flour without salt and it's so bland.. One tiny reason to complain about this heaven. You can forget about Apulian brown loaves with a thick crust, so I bought two kilos of flour and I will bake by myself. 
 I could return taking the same or an alternative, more demanding route, a moment of hesitation, but I chose the latter.  It is even more beautiful in terms of views, it cuts through the heart of the Sienese clays and the traffic there is negligible.  Crowds come here for photography shooting and me just went shopping... 
Where did you go on your bike today? 
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#italiainbici #italybybike #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #cretesenesi #solotraveller #biketouring #by bike #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskipodróżcze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling # bybike #lifeofadventure #toscanagram #toscana
Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Have you ever taken your bicycle on Flixbus buses? Yes, that? Uncertain about it? I have, numerous times in Europe, luckily mostly it went smoothly. And one big failure..that finished well.

Dreaming of a bicycle trip around France or sunny Italy, experiencing the great cycling infrastructure in Germany, a trip to the Hungarian Lake Balaton or Poland? How to get there with a bike? If you don't like flying, trains fail or are too expensive, Flixbus could be an option, to reach the place with a bicycle. Sometimes it's simple, but beware – it's is not always the case.

It's time to plan our summer trips so here I come with my blog post on Flixbus and bicycles. Step by step guide with lots of photos, screenshots and links. 

Questions answered:
Can I transport a bike on Flixbus?  What does it look like?  How to search for connections?  Do I have to dismantle and pack my bike?  What problems may arise and how to avoid them. And what if we can't ..?

Any experience in this regard?  #flixbus
👉Link in my bio 

 Ps.  I created this post with other people in mind and it took me a long time.
 Did you find it useful?  Cool!  Pass it on. Buy me a coffee!
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#europebybike #bikeonabus #rower #flixbusrower #womenonbikes #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #onmybike  #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #outsideisfree  #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail. you Sometimes you keep on trying.. and you fail.  you know it, right?  No idea how it happened, but until now, despite numerous stays in Italy I have not seen the ancient city of Pompeii.
 But that's the past!  Last Sunday, making a stop on my way from the south of Italy to the north, I finally visited this extraordinary place.  Me and thousands of others 😁. There were crowds.  Maybe even bigger than usual.
 Sunday was a weather window between days of rain because it still rains a lot.  But not only.  It was also the first Sunday of the month, and on the first Sunday of the month in Italy it was declared "Sunday at the Museum", when admission to most museum monuments in the country is free, Pompeii too.  I was planning a stop on the road for this Sunday, so it was great! Already in the morning the queue was sky -high but made it smoothly in.
 I walked the stone streets of Pompeii with my jaw dropped.  I had no idea how huge this area is!  A regular port city, it used to lie on the seashore.  Beautiful villas, an amphitheater, a theater, speeches, temples, baths, even a brothel.  The love of art can be seen everywhere, frescoes, sculptures. The tragic volcano Vesuvius still reigns over the city.
 In terms of trials and intentions, however, there still be the Amalfi Coast - a mountainous promontory jutting into the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea south of Naples, which is famous for its insane views.  Positano and Sorrento are the names of real cities on the Amalfi coast, not just pizzerias 😉. Well, I missed a few days and the weather. 
Next time
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#pompei #italiainbici #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #biketouring #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzeświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling # bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #domenicaalmuseo
It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing It's cold and windy outside - how about immersing yourself in the landscape of Italian postcards?  Dolce vita viewed from your bicycle? 

In my new blog post let me take you to Tuscany for cycling in the Orcia river valley.  I've spent many months there and go back frequently in different seasons (yes, just in a week!). I got to know this region really well and fell in love with it just like everyone else.

Val D'Orcia makes the most of what Italian landscape is - medieval stone towns on the hills, picturesque roads lined with cypress trees, winding gorges, vineyards and olive groves and all this creates fantastic, almost fabulous landscapes. A UNESCO heritage and an AMAZING bike spot in one.

Hold on, because the views knock you off the couch 🙂 It is here, through the winding roads of Tuscany, that the routes of iconic bicycle routes lead - the vintage race L'Eroica, the high-performance Tuscany Trail and the ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome - Via Francingena. You will cross the famous "strade bianche" - roads made of almost white gravel. One thing is for sure - you won't be the only one riding a bike. And not the only one to sweat - yes, it's all about the hills!

Follow a link in my bio 
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#eroica #valdorcia #italybybike #hobolife #cyclingitaly #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #rowerem #rowerowapodróż #onmybike #wyprawarowerowa #roweremprzezświat #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #worldbycycling #bicycletouring #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the It Today, as the sun finally set its foot over the Italian heel again and spring in the air- I cycled to some of the oldest groves in Puglia. The olive trees - some over a thousand years old, have their trunks wrapping around the gnarled base before splitting and walking away from their other parts. The olive oil has become substantial part of my diet and here it tastes great. 40% of Italian olive oil comes from Puglia!
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#italybybike #puglia #olivetree #apulia #kobietanarowerze #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #outdoorwoman #bike #onmybike #polskieblogpodrozcze #freedom #bikewander #outsideisfree #solotravel #worldbycycling #bybike #lifeofadventure #outsideisfree
Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea Cycling in sunshine, under blue sky and by the sea made my (1st of a year) day.
A great start I would say. 
2023 - let it be... A good one! Yet another. Wishing you all.
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#italybybike #pugliainbici #outdoorwomen #cyclinglifestyle #travelbike #freedom #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #solotraveller #biketouring #polignanoamare #apulia
#rowerem #onmybike #Puglia #happynewyear #polskieblogipodróżnicze #lifeontheroad #bikewander #solotravel #natgeotravel #worldbycycling #cycling #bybike #lifeofadventure
"Natale con i suoi, Easter with whoever you want" - "Christ "Natale con i suoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" - "Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you want" says the Italian proverb, according to it, on the first day of Christmas, December 25, after 2 p.m., Italy stops. And then, the square was full of people, cafe bustle, conversations, drinks to warm up before a long afternoon at the table and then ... silence. Nobody. Christmas dinner is the main, most important point of Christmas celebrations, just like Christmas Eve in Poland. Santo Stefano day, December 26th is traditionally spent walking, sightseeing, outdoors. And now not a single car passed by me, but another cyclist did!  Fantastic weather - blue sky, sun, about 17 degrees.
Wandering around the streets, the kitchen windows are open and I can smell fried fish. Once upon a time I came to Italy for a holiday with $300 in my pocket (which I put aside all year long by giving English classes), which was supposed to last for 2 months. And it did. Sleeping under the sky as I didn't even have a tent, hitchhiking..the only food I had was bread with onions and Calve mayonnaise.  This mayonnaise was my discovery, and sweet onions too.  The main point of the day and the only luxury I allowed myself was a cup of cappuccino - before I ordered it, however, I walked around and looked at the tables of the cafes in which cups they serve them in - I wanted as big as possible.  Then I sat for an hour, tasting the remnants of milk foam with a spoon. The smell of tomato sauce coming from the open windows annoyed me because I was craving dinner so much. Today I remembered that smell from 30 years back.
 I have lunch at home, and cappuccino is also sometimes, thanks to your donations as well (I still look at the cups 🙃). And on the wall today I read the quote "Limits exist only in the soul of those who do not dream". But it was pathetic.  Let's dream, let's fulfill...
I wish you many good dinners and moments spent as you wish.  I was on a bike 😁.
 https://buycoffee.to/ewcyna
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #travelbybike #solowomancycling #christmasvibe
Today it's December 10th and it is a special date Today it's December 10th and it is a special date for me. On 10 Dec 2013, I locked my door, gave the key to the new tenant, packed the box with my bike into my neighbor's car and flew off on a trip with a one-way ticket. To the other side of the world, the Philippines. The decision-making process wasn't particularly long and was born after cycling Japan, but I had been preparing for this escapade for several months. Organizing my life, buying a new bike (to make it "easier" I went to Berlin twice in one week) and other equipment, buying various insurances, arranging vaccinations - each step meant a lot of time spent on choosing one option or another, finally packing life into boxes and taking it to the basement and flying to Manila with a short stay in Shanghai on the way. I chose the Philippines knowing absolutely nothing about it. There was a promotion on KLM tickets and this destination seemed to me OK. It wasn't that much OK as it turned out, but I still managed to spend there and even pedal for 7 weeks 🙂. For the first 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Sophia. 
Gees, it's been 9 years, and I can't stop! After the Philippines I flew to Burma, then cycled through Thailand, Laos, China.... I don't know if I'll go back to Southeast Asia, because I'm sweating at the thought of it, but going through my posts (quite clumsy, it's the beginnings of the blog) made me very happy. If you feel like it go to my my webpage #Ewcyna. What an excitement it was!
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#hobolife #worldbycycling #philippinesbybike #adventurecycling #outdoorwomen #rowerem  #cyclinglife #travelblog #travelbike #freedom #outdoor #outdoorwoman #outsideisfree #biketravel #travelbybike #solowomancycling #solopodróż #solotraveller #biketouring #blogipodroznicze #photooftheday
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Ewcyna
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